so here's another problem for me. checked the ph in my tank it's higher then 8.8 but test only reads that high. thought it might be because of rocks and gravel..but i tested the tap water 1st. and it was the same reading. so it's not my rock or gravel. nothing else in the tank right now? I'm wanting to get some orandas but ph is way to high...I heard about water rite and ph down..but I have read they don't stablize the ph in the tank just a "quick fix". also i heard drift wood would help but only by like .3-.8 maybe...so other then buy bottled water till i'm completely broke any other ideas or tricks to help lower my ph to a decent level?
tank ph8.8+ and tap is8.8+ help???
- Thread starter donle
- Start date
Going the RO route is one way of doing it.
You can also get pete moss. I've heard a wide range of stories about how it's worked for people. One story was from a guy with a high PH that stuffed some in his canister filter and ended up killing his cycle it dropped his PH so low. So yeah, pete moss, placed strategically to make sure you don't go too far, will lower your PH properly.
Also, depending on the wood, size and how you prepared it you can get a zero PH change to as much as .8.
If you have a LFS guy that you "know" is smart about things you can ask him what the LFS does about the local water PH issues.
You can also get pete moss. I've heard a wide range of stories about how it's worked for people. One story was from a guy with a high PH that stuffed some in his canister filter and ended up killing his cycle it dropped his PH so low. So yeah, pete moss, placed strategically to make sure you don't go too far, will lower your PH properly.
Also, depending on the wood, size and how you prepared it you can get a zero PH change to as much as .8.
If you have a LFS guy that you "know" is smart about things you can ask him what the LFS does about the local water PH issues.
goldfish will be fine at that pH since they prefer alkaline water. acclimate slowly. test their bag water to figure out what pH they're coming from (but this is flawed slightly since they're breathing in the bag and lowering that pH with their CO2).
Depending on your tank size, you can also look at african rift cichlids which will love your tank.
if a piece of driftwood changes your pH from 8.8 to 7, I'd be wary of your KH. if its too low you will have pH swings easily. Test the KH if possible, water that alkaline usually should have high buffering capacity and the driftwood should NOT have made such a big impact on it...
How big is your tank btw? Oh and livebearers are also a good choice for that alkaline water.
Depending on your tank size, you can also look at african rift cichlids which will love your tank.
if a piece of driftwood changes your pH from 8.8 to 7, I'd be wary of your KH. if its too low you will have pH swings easily. Test the KH if possible, water that alkaline usually should have high buffering capacity and the driftwood should NOT have made such a big impact on it...
How big is your tank btw? Oh and livebearers are also a good choice for that alkaline water.
tank is 55 gallon..so here's what i've done be listening to my LFS guy. I'm running a top fin 60 which will do 300gph, with two 3way filtration cartridges. I've added Tetra Aqua safe water conditioner, some aquarium salt, and Seachem neutral regulator to the tank. Also added 8 common goldies which he said would help cycle the tank and help lower the ph in the tank. This was all before I got back on here tonight..he said that starting the tank was going to be the hard part and once the cycle has completed ph should stable... even through water changes....I'm thinking I might end up having to go with cichlids if my ph does stable...not sure how he figures it will stay stable anyway being that my tap water is ph'd at 8.8 so water changes would just make the ph spike up... if it doesn't stable at least my tank will be cycled and i can do a 50% water change and just get cichlids.....what do you guys think?
We have very hard water here as well, comparable to yours. LFS here has RO in all the tanks except a few exceptions (cichlids, etc.)
We have been having major problems (velvet, lost several fish now) due to stress from fluctuating water parameters... because I was using RO without adding kH back in.
If I was starting a new tank at this point I would definitely go for the path of least resistance and do a cichlid tank - if there's any way to use your tap, do it.
We have been having major problems (velvet, lost several fish now) due to stress from fluctuating water parameters... because I was using RO without adding kH back in.
If I was starting a new tank at this point I would definitely go for the path of least resistance and do a cichlid tank - if there's any way to use your tap, do it.
Salt has been used to help a fishes' slime coat and to reduce other problems, like swim bladder. Some people think it's basically the snake oil of the aquarium world. Some data shows that a minuscule amount of aquarium salt can help. From what I've read you don't need near as much as most people claim.
With 8 feeder goldies your tank will go nuclear quickly. Keep a close eye on your ammonia/nitrItes. Do large (30-50%) water changes once you start seeing ammonia and don't stop until you start seeing the magical nitrAtes show up. Your LFS guy is giving you the "dirty as hell" method of cycling your tank. Once you have it cycled, depending on the size of your goldfish, you could add all your cichlids and that goldfish problem will sort itself out if your cichlids are big enough to eat them. Please keep in mind that goldfish are on the low end of the nutritional scale.
With 8 feeder goldies your tank will go nuclear quickly. Keep a close eye on your ammonia/nitrItes. Do large (30-50%) water changes once you start seeing ammonia and don't stop until you start seeing the magical nitrAtes show up. Your LFS guy is giving you the "dirty as hell" method of cycling your tank. Once you have it cycled, depending on the size of your goldfish, you could add all your cichlids and that goldfish problem will sort itself out if your cichlids are big enough to eat them. Please keep in mind that goldfish are on the low end of the nutritional scale.
the goldies will be going to a friend. I added the aquarium salt because the guy at my LFS said it would help with bacteria growth and help the goldies stress through the cycle period. And believe it or not I used this seachem neutral regulator like my LFS guy asked..well last night after really debating my PH battle. I did a ph test in the tank a few minutes ago and it was 7.6 which is close to what i want. so it works, but I doubt with the water changes and ect..that it will remain stable so..I'm going to go back to a cichlid tank less of a headach for me and the fish. maybe in another life or after i can get a RO system i'll do my oranda tank..sniff* sniff* lol
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UPDATE....I will be going with the orandas!!! after long long long talk with the guy at my LFS...by using Seachem neutral regulator to establish a lower ph. small water 15% water changes. should buffer to a nice ph for the fish. adding drift wood, and addidng a small amount of pete moss to my filter cartrige will stabilize the ph. So last night at about 10pm tested the ph..it was 8.8...added seachem tested this morning at 9am and it was at 7.6!!!!! yeah we're getting there.....man as long as the ph doesn't spike back up in the next couple days. things should be looking good for me and the orandas I want..!!!