Best Pop Eye treatment?
- Thread starter ShadowCorpse
- Start date
Yea i am fine with doing water changes until i can come up with money for a bigger tank, that was my plan anyways. Also i was going by the 1 fish per gallon rule. I was gonna get another dwarf gourami, and then stick to small fish like danios or something small like that. My friend has a 29 gallon that eventually he said he as going to sell and i was gonna buy that off of him.
I would suspect the test results are faulty if 'everything' is 0 ppm. How are you testing your water (what test kit brand and type ~strips or liquid test tube kit~) and what SPECIFICALLY are you testing for that gives you a result of 0 ppm?
There used to be a 'rule' of one inch of fish per gallon of water, but that does not work in very small aquariums nor with all but the smallest of fish. You would not put a 5inch oscar in a 5 gallon tank.
A 29 gallon tank would be a great setup for the fish you mentioned.
There used to be a 'rule' of one inch of fish per gallon of water, but that does not work in very small aquariums nor with all but the smallest of fish. You would not put a 5inch oscar in a 5 gallon tank.
A 29 gallon tank would be a great setup for the fish you mentioned.
Definitely do a partial water change - probably about 50% (some one else may chime in about this) You will need to do this daily to get the ammonia to zero. Also, remember its nitrIte and nitrAte. There is a difference. You want the nitrite at zero, but when it is finally cycled it will show nitrates of about 20ppm.
The ammonia reading of 2.0 is not 'zero' so that explains the illnesses you've experienced. You should do water changes anytime you see ammonia on the test.
What dechlorinator do you use to treat the water? Check the label and see if you can use it to bind ammonia. I'd do daily 50% water changes and only feed every other day until the tank cycles.
What dechlorinator do you use to treat the water? Check the label and see if you can use it to bind ammonia. I'd do daily 50% water changes and only feed every other day until the tank cycles.
If you are on city water and they use chloramine, using that conditioner will add ammonia to your water. I would recommend using one that binds ammonia until your cycle has completed.
Zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and some measurable nitrates. When you hit 20 in nitrates, you should do a water change to lower them.
Zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and some measurable nitrates. When you hit 20 in nitrates, you should do a water change to lower them.
Also my Dwarf Gourami just came out of hiding and its eye is like hanging out, I read online that after suffering Pop eye the fish might lose its eye, but does this mean the pop eye is going away? or is it gonna die? It seems to be acting exactly how i would when i don't feel good, hiding and sleeping all the time. It just came out to look for food so maybe hes feeling better?
Yes i am using city water, also what would the best conditioner be? I hate this feeling that I'm killing fish and I'm only trying to do good and i keep miserably failing. Before i started the tank, i never knew anything about cycling a tank. when i was like 10 years old i used to have a 10 gallon with tropical fish and everything was fine, we never cycled the tank or anything.
Read the label on the dechlorinators available to you at your pet store. I personally use Prime (made by Seachem), but any that say 'binds ammonia' on the label will work.
Keep in mind, the test kit will still show ammonia (because its STILL THERE when in the bound form as ammonium). I would just follow the instructions for bind it, then still do your 50% water changes until your tank cycles. It can also be used to detoxify nitrite when you get further along in your cycle (even deadlier than ammonia), just be sure to add extra aeration.
Keep in mind, the test kit will still show ammonia (because its STILL THERE when in the bound form as ammonium). I would just follow the instructions for bind it, then still do your 50% water changes until your tank cycles. It can also be used to detoxify nitrite when you get further along in your cycle (even deadlier than ammonia), just be sure to add extra aeration.