Fish Deaths

KcMopar

Superstar Fish
#21
You are doing right by asking questions!!! I put my water to about 84-86 degrees(only raise it about one or two degree an hour. Since vacuuming daily I do not use any filter at all when treating Ich as the spores can be in it to. I remove all my tank decoration so I can get a really good vacuum (I clean and let them dry until the Ich is gone). (Note: you need the filter device pumping water but with no media in it. You also need to make sure you have good water surface movement to oxygenate the water as the higher temp depletes the oxygen content of the water.) I do what ever water change it takes to get a 100% vacuum of the gravel which is usually about 25-40%. Percentage is not as important as getting the spores vacuumed up. Once I get the vacuum job to what I think its 100% I am done and refill with dechlorinated water, heated to the tank temp. Some people use salt, I have never seen any advantage to this in my experience but, some people swear by it. If you do use salt DO NOT USE MORE THEN A TEASPOON PER 20 GALLONS UNLESS YOU HAVE A SALTWATER SALINITY TESTER.
Please let us know if you have any more questions. We are here to help you achieve a successful fish tank.
If I missed anything I encourage other to fill in my gaps.
 

Dec 14, 2011
229
0
0
WI
#22
Do any of you have any suggestions about what I can do if I don't want to invest in a QT? Or if I get one, how big should it be? What do I do with it and the fish I put into it? I'm thinking about getting one, but if I do, it will probably be small. Probably one of those little desk tanks, but I don't know if that's big enough.
 

Thyra

Superstar Fish
Jun 2, 2010
1,891
0
0
Yelm, WA
#23
My suggestion would be 10g and to try Craig's List or the thrift stores - just don't get a reptile tank because they are not as strong. You may be able to get away with a 5g tank as long as you didn't put more then a few fish in at a time.
 

skjl47

Large Fish
Nov 13, 2010
712
0
0
Northeastern Tennessee.
#24
Hello; I used a 10 gallon tank as a QT for a number of years. I have used other sizes, basically what was on hand that did not leak and would fit on the bottom shelf of my metal tank stand. A QT has to be set up much like any other tank in that it needs to have a population of beneficial bacteria (bb), a heater, and some sort of filtration/aeration. I usually have a full lighted hood nowadays but have used a pane of glass as a cover in the past. For filtration/aeration I have used a bubble powered sponge filter, a small hang on back filter and sometimes just a bubbler.
The sponge filter is handy as it can be in a disply tank and become colonized with bb, then stuck into the QT so that the QT can be ready to recieve fish quickly. I copied a forum suggestion and got some foam from Wal-Mart and cut it to have two sections of foam on the sponge filter. This way I have two bb loaded foam sections to throw into a new setup to speed up the cycle.
I usually do not put substrate in a QT, just a bare bottom. A clay pot or some stacked pieces of slate go in for any new fish that need a hiding place. This stuff can be quickly removed and cleaned when necessary.
I usually keep a QT filled and filtered all the time. I keep some snails and non rooted floating plants like hornwort in it. I sometimes keep at least one fish in it all the time. This keeps the tank going and ready to recieve new fish or become a hospital tank.
The size of the QT will determine how many new fish can be kept in it during the quarantine peroid. The fact that a very small tank is basically harder to maintain makes me tend to use the largest tank available. I would probably not go below a five gallon at any rate, but a smaller could be used. A QT has the same needs as any other and the small tanks can go bad very quickly.
One accidental discovery made some years ago yielded a nice bonus. I would siphon water from the QT for a water change to be discarded. For reasons that i do not recall, I started filling the QT with tank water from a display tank on the stand above it. (I was not keeping any fish in the QT at the time.) I would usually get a cup or two of gravel thru the siphon into the QT. I left it there and replaced the gravel in the display with a supply of cleaned gravel. I then filled the display tank with fresh water. After doing this for some weeks I noticed fry in the QT. I had siphoned fertile eggs into the QT and they hatched. Over the years i got a few bonus fry this way.
I am finishing up new drywall in the corner of the room where my tanks are and do not have a QT right now. I hope to finish up soon. I need to change out a standard wall outlet for a GFI that was hidden behind the tank. I have been down to only one tank set up for a while. I want some new fish and have gotten to the point of not getting any without a QT. Better to wait than infect my display tank.
 

KcMopar

Superstar Fish
#27
Its hard to have a QT tank cycled and ready to go, this is what I do in a nut shell. I have an extra filter on my 150G freshwater and 40G saltwater tanks for future use on a QT 10G. I have two spare 10G in my closet ready to go if I need a QT tank. These spare filters just have bio balls connected together to fit in the back of them where the media goes and a cheap sponge in each of them. This way all I need to do is take a few gallons from what ever I need and fill the rest with good fresh water either salt or fresh. I always have a QT tank for my salt going for new stuff and to raise my pods but if a hard core deal happens I can have either water set-up going in less then half an hour.
Does anyone else have an emergency back-up plan??? This would be great info to everyone!!!
 

skjl47

Large Fish
Nov 13, 2010
712
0
0
Northeastern Tennessee.
#28
Hello; I would still suggest at least five gallons or more. Some have used plastic containers. At any rate a QT is not a required thing. A QT does help prevent bringing in sickness and is something that can be done in the future when you circumstances allow.
In the meantime try to learn how to spot diseased tanks at fish stores. Before buying look at all the tanks and do not buy from them if any tanks have fish with ick in them unless they practice good net and water discipline. If they use the same net for all the tanks diseases will be spread. The same applies if they dip water into bags from different tanks using the same container. Fish stores use to keep containers of methylene solution in which the nets were stored between uses. If a store has ick in any tanks or tanks with a lot of dead fish, especially those dead long enough to have been eaten on by the other fish, it may be better to not buy from them at all.
It has been a while since a quarantined fish has turned up with a problem for me. It took me a long time to learn some of these things to look for so do not be discouraged.
 

Feb 27, 2009
4,395
0
36
#29
In a pinch, I've used my 5gallon water change buckets for a QT tank. I keep extra small heaters and will put one in the bottom of the bucket (that is how I maintain make sure my change water is the same temp as the tank water, as my tap water at times is way colder than my tanks' temperatures.

But since I do plants, its easy to instantly cycle a tank with trimmings/substrate/deco from an established tank.
 

Dec 14, 2011
229
0
0
WI
#30
So this is the quarantine tank that I bought. It's a 10 gallon Tetra or somethingorother from Walmart (they're the cheapest to buy kits from.) It doesn't have a heater right now, but I bought a thermometer to monitor the regular temperature in the room I put it in. (I live in a duplex with my grandparents, and although we're freezing throughout the winter, they stay nice and toasty. The room that the tank is in stays very warm all the time. I'm hoping I can get away without a heater, but we'll see.) Is there anything else besides the pot that I should perhaps put in there? I thought about letting a plastic plant float on the top, but that seems kind of like a hassle to me, especially since the opening in the hood is very small.

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Jan 23, 2012
68
0
0
Aurora CO
#31
If you could do a 1 gallon water change every day, the water would be almost perfect. The medicine only kills ich in the free swimming stage and has no effect when the parisite is already attached. (White spot on fish.) It will fall off the fish, encapsilate itself and rehatch as many more in the free swimming stage. This is when you can kill the parisite before more attach. To kill what's on the fish a brief bath (4-6 minutes) in a salt water bath will help explode the attached parisite. Osmiosis difference or something. Just wondering why your PH is so high? Everything is 10x worse as you increase the PH above 7. Amonia/nitrite/ nitrate and stress. Do you have african cichlids? If no the ph is way to high for comfort to most tropicals. 6.5 to 7 is most species sweet spot. Except angles they like acid water.
Hope that helps.
 

lauraf

Superstar Fish
Jan 1, 2010
2,181
0
0
Vancouver, British Columbia
#32
So this is the quarantine tank that I bought. It's a 10 gallon Tetra or somethingorother from Walmart (they're the cheapest to buy kits from.) Is there anything else besides the pot that I should perhaps put in there? I thought about letting a plastic plant float on the top, but that seems kind of like a hassle to me, especially since the opening in the hood is very small.

View attachment 11025
Personally I'd put a plant in there or something for fish to 'hide' in, among or behind. It may reduce their stress level.
 

Jan 23, 2012
68
0
0
Aurora CO
#34
Hello; I had a 1990 Sentra SE-R for 10 years. Was a very good car. Salt is not good to use with all fish. Some tolerate it well but others are harmed by it.
I had a 95 sentra ser that was sweet. I do a lot of car shows and they still show up. 2 different ones at this years end of year meet had turbo's. Back on topic. Never knew some fish didn't do well with some salt in the water. Not brackish water conditions but just a little.
The purpose of the higher concentrate salt bath is to force the parisite off the fish. I'll have to read that post. Wonder if it was specific to a short bath or long exposure to salt in that article?
 

skjl47

Large Fish
Nov 13, 2010
712
0
0
Northeastern Tennessee.
#35
Hello; Let's check my memory. I think some of the loaches cannot tolerate salt. Some scaleless fish as well? I am talking about the small amounts of salt such as one tablespoon per gallon. Some fish like mollies can stand a lot of salt or not much.
Some classified as brackish species need salt concentrations approaching marine levels as they live in river mouths, an such where salt and fresh water are mixed.
Off TOPIC - I replaced the 90 Sentra SE-R with a 2001 Sentra SE. It does not have the independent read suspension so does not handle near as well. Still a good car with the 2.0 liter engine and still running fine after 11 years.
 

Jan 23, 2012
68
0
0
Aurora CO
#36
I think some of the loaches cannot tolerate salt. Some scaleless fish as well? I am talking about the small amounts of salt such as one tablespoon per gallon.

Off TOPIC - I replaced the 90 Sentra SE-R with a 2001 Sentra SE.
Still a good car with the 2.0 liter engine and still running fine after 11 years.
Interesting about the loaches and scaleless fish. I'll check that out.
off-topic they are nice cars. The newer sentra ser's are nice. They have good potential.
The 3.5 in the altimas are nice engines. I run a 100 shot and cams ect.
Here's a quick video. Sorry to the op in advance.
 

KcMopar

Superstar Fish
#40
If you are not putting a little bit of food in every day it will not cycle, its just running. You can add a tiny pinch of food each day and it will start the cycle going. Just check the water weekly and when the ammonia and nitrite zero and the nitrate show about 5ppm or so you are ready to add a small fish or two tiny ones.