What more do I need for a healthy betta?

Jan 15, 2013
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#1
OK, so I've had 3 bettas and they all ended up dying from diseases. I just got my fourth today and I was wondering what I need besides:
2.5 gallon aquarium
filter
heater
light
water test kit
dechlorinater
food (have 2 pellet mixes and 1 flake mix plus daphnia, bloodworms, brine shrimp, other freeze dried & frozen foods)
gravel vacuum
algae scraper
Thanks for your help!
 

GooGirl

Large Fish
Nov 20, 2012
222
0
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Walla Walla Washington
#2
Everything looks good! Bettas are often viewed as 'fragile' but I don't believe this is true. Bettas are actually very hardy. I've had my betta for a year and a half, and he has been through all sorts of water conditions and diseases, and he is still alive and well!
 

Thyra

Superstar Fish
Jun 2, 2010
1,891
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Yelm, WA
#4
A 2.5g tank is difficult to cycle. I kept one for over 2 years and I am not sure I ever got it cycled. It sat in the kitchen where there was obviously too much light, so algae was a problem and the tank needed at least weekly cleaning and I would do a 75% water change. I finally abandoned that tank because of the work it was to keep it looking presentable and put the betta in a community tank. I will say that the two otos that were with the betta were very fat and happy!
 

Jan 15, 2013
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#5
Thanks for your help!
Omnonimator--
When I first got the filter, I didn't know about cycling so the poor fish just had to live through it :(. But by now the filter is mature.
 

lauraf

Superstar Fish
Jan 1, 2010
2,181
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Vancouver, British Columbia
#6
What was keeping the filter "mature" in between bettas? Don't be surprised if you lost your cycle. And as Thyra mentioned, a 2.5g tank is really hard to cycle. In fact smaller tanks can actually be more difficult to maintain than larger ones. While I don't think you are doing anything wrong, in fact, for the most part you're doing great, you may want to consider a 5g. That can be a little easier to manage, and it's possible your betta will enjoy it more - but that is such a subjective thing to say, I don't know how it could really be proven.
Back to the cycle. Without a test kit, you don't actually know your readings for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, so I think you have to act like your tank isn't cycled, which means full water changes for the new betta.
 

CAPSLOCK

Elite Fish
Jul 19, 2004
3,682
33
48
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Cape Cod
#7
Did they die right away after you got them, or did you have them for a bit before they got sick and died? A lot of times, they are not in the best condition leaving the store so if they passed shortly after, it could easily be due to having an ill betta to start with, compounded by the stress of moving and changing water conditions (even though the conditions are better).

I think bettas are hit and miss health wise - some of them are hardy and will live through some pretty sketchy conditions, others tend to be illness-prone no matter what you do.
 

Jan 15, 2013
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#8
lauraf-
I moniter my water quality with a test kit, and my ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite readings are ideal...and CAPSLOCK, I had them all for at least a year before they died.
 

Jan 15, 2013
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#9
I will certainly consider a 5 gal...I bet my bettas would like it more. Currently I only have a tiny 3/4" long betta, so I think she's OK in the 2.5 gal right now. But as she gets bigger I might upgrade.
 

Thyra

Superstar Fish
Jun 2, 2010
1,891
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Yelm, WA
#10
What do you consider "ideal" for your water quality? I hated to ask and don't want to offend you, but we are finding many people think zero for all three readings mean the water is fine, but for a tank to be cycled it needs to show some nitrate.
 

KcMopar

Superstar Fish
#11
Years back (I really mean more then 30 years LOL) when I had a two gallon bowl I changed 1 quart of water every two or three days and this seemed to be the best operation I had done with it. Mind you it didnt have any filter just some gravel (from the side of our road)) on the bottom and an air stone. We had well water back then, I just used a 1 cup measuring scoop and filled the mason jar up with old water then dumped it down the drain and filled it back up with well water from the tap and dumped it in slowly as not to disturb the CRAP on the bottom. Yes it was never vacuumed!!!! But I kept little fish for years like that. Back in the day it was always about water changes. Most folks only had an air stone. Only the VERY rich folks had filters or heaters. I just made myself feel dated LOL.
 

KcMopar

Superstar Fish
#15
I wonder the same, thats about 10.1 dkh of alkalinity which is pretty high compared to the pH. Are you using well or city water? That reading would lead me to think its well water which is fine. Ifs its city water is astounding!!! The nitrate reading of ZERO is the scary part. a cycled tank will always show some nitrate, ZERO is indicating is not cycled.
 

Feb 27, 2009
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#18
I'm using Tetra's EasyStrips for nitrate, nitrite, hardness, alkalinity, chlorine, and pH. Jungle's Quick Dip for Ammonia.
And I'm using city water...
I would find those readings suspect, especially if using city water. Can you get the tests done at an aquarium shop that uses a liquid test kit?

what should I do to cycle it properly? My fish is already in the tank!
All you can do is a fish-in cycle at this point, unless you can get some filter media or gravel from an established tank.
 

Feb 27, 2009
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#20
The PetSmarts in my area (Texas, USA) use the dip strips also. If yours uses the liquid tests, be sure to write down the actual numbers. Don't let them say its 'fine' or 'ok' or 'safe' only.