New tank + forgetfulness + poor preparation, hoping for confirmation of the problem

Feb 18, 2013
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#21
I agree FishDad, thank you for your continued input and support, it is much appreciated.

At first I was hoping it was just his skin recovering from the Ammonia \ Nitrite levels, however his darting around the tank began about 4 days ago, at 78-80 F from what I've read this is about right for Ich, he has spurts of activity, followed by periods of inactivity, almost as if he is not able to breathe well.

I also am now believing that his orange pigmentation is in part due to the elevated levels of nitrites that I was unable to lower \ did not lower. Even with 40 % water changes they did not really drop below 1 ppm. I believe he is not only suffering from Ich, but also brown blood, his gills are darker than I've ever seen them. Today test, nitrites are back between 1 and 2.

It may have been a mistake, however except for the water in the HOB I performed a complete water change. During the change I cleaned and soaked all of the parts excluding the HOB in 140 degree water for about an hour. I've read that Ich is not able to reproduce or survive above 86, and that increasing temp accelerates Ich's metabolism dramatically. I also read that Ich cannot endure being dried out, I doubt this applies to the spores after they attach however for good measure I laid all of the items out to dry, with the high temperature this did not take long, I allowed the tank to stay dry for about 2 hours.

I've removed all that I can from the tank, the only items that exist now are a new plastic pot for Jack to rest in, and a thin layer of gravel and the HOB. The snails and 3 remaining ghost shrimp are in a 3 gal tank where Jack was while I cleaned his tank.

I verified that the nitrites are now at 0 ppm, nitrates show slightly elevated levels. I am now treating with quICK cure, which I understand is harsher, Jack is now swimming about a bit in the clean tank, followed by an hour of rest each time, he is also eating again, only a fraction of what he usually does, but it's a step in the right direction I hope.

My plans are to continue to monitor the nitrites, perform 50 % water changes daily, continue Ich treatments, if nitrites rise above 0.5 I plan to perform a complete change as I did today. While a complete cycle would be beneficial long term, now that our large tank is registering nitrite's in it's fishless cycle, I'm only concerned with keeping Jack, he does not seem to be overly stressed by being moved between tanks, or he did not today. I did however move him in an opaque pot so I'm not sure he knew he was being moved.

I am now faced with treating for Ich, and brown blood, I understand I caused this, and it will not happen again, I also understand that each problem on it's own can be a challenge to overcome, however both make it much more difficult.

Should I only treat for Ich with medication, and try to treat the brown blood with large or complete water changes to remove nitrites, or would it be better to add aquarium salt, and treat the brown blood, add another few airstones, and slowly raise the water temperature to fight the Ich ?

I found this article for brown blood published in 1998 https://www.addl.purdue.edu/newsletters/1998/spring/nitrate.shtml

I have no experience with either course so I would welcome any input.
 

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Feb 18, 2013
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#22
I hope no one else makes this mistake however from what I've read it is quite common. Here's a recent pic of Jack, with Ich, and brown blood poisoning.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h30rhse3m1rk8z4/IMG_20130305_125109.jpg?m

for comparison here he is a month ago

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4fao0d2x1q9qq7c/02-09-13.jpg?m

Today I performed a complete water change, except for what was in the HOB.

Things I've changed:
  • Jack is in a 10 gal tank with 6 gal of water, the HOB is making lots of micro bubbles, that tend to float around most of the tank before surfacing.
  • In the tank is a 4" glazed pot, the pot is standing straight up, there is just enough water over it for him to swim into it to hide.
  • Inside this pot is an air stone, the pot does not have any holes in it, and Jack seems to like to rest for a few minutes in the pot, then swim out and around the tank, before returning for a few more minutes.


Ich treatment continues, he is still covered in spots, which I would have expected to be gone by now, however it is only day 3-4.

Tank Stats
  • Ammonia = 0
  • Nitrites = 1 before change, 0 after
  • Nitrates = 0
  • Temp = 79-80


As always any input is welcome.
 

FishDad

Superstar Fish
Mar 4, 2012
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Cleveland
#23
Well I've never had experience with brown blood, but I have had lots with ich. One thing I can tell you is that you likely did nothing by draining the tank. Those spots on Jack will burst into new parasites that will find a place to hatch thousands more parasites. Your goal is to inturrupt the life cycle by creating a toxic enviroment for the parasite. Its only vulnerable stage is when it is free swimming from either fish to hard surface to hatch or from hatch to fish. There are three ways to create a toxic enviroment... salt, heat or chems. I have had success in one way or another with all three, but you can research how to properly apply those treatments. The key is to understand the life cycle. Hope that helps.
 

Feb 18, 2013
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#24
Indeed, I've been reading everything I can find since Saturday, to try and hasten their removal.

I've modified my treatment a bit also.

I'm still treating the water with the medication, as it does not seem to be directly affecting Jack at this moment, I'm also adding salt to his tank to treat the brown blood, right now there is about a 0.35 oz to gallon ratio. Tomorrow I will adjust this to about 0.1-0.2 after a complete water change. Everything I've read stated that a salt bath for 24 hours then decreasing the salt levels will help.

My logic behind this is the sodium chloride competes with the nitrites, it also makes the environment less habitable for the Ich. I do not dare raise the water temp any since Jack's ability to absorb o2 is limited by the nitrite poisoning, and from what I've read, increasing water temp decreases o2 saturation.

About 5 minutes after adding the salt to the tank ( I mixed it with some of his tank water and poured it near the HOB ) he perked up even more than he had, and his color is fading in the last few hours, his gills are a pink - red, vs the brown they had been.

He is also eating again, twice today, both portions about what he would normally eat.

"Fingers crossed"
 

Feb 18, 2013
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#28
Thanks OC, as of right now I'm using non iodized table salt without yellow cake, the local pet store is poorly stocked, and walmart is no better, I'll order some though I'm sure it'll be good to have some in the future in case.
 

Feb 18, 2013
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#29
3/6/13
  • Ammonia: 0
  • Nitrites: 0
  • Nitrates: < 0.5
  • Temp: 79 F
    [HR][/HR]
  • Activity:
    • Ate at 12 pm, ate at 6:30 after water change. refilled with 7 gallons of water, about an hour after eating and swimming about.
    • Performed a complete water change
    • Lowered Salt from 0.5 oz / gallon to 0.35 oz / gallon
  • Notes:
    • I found jack in a corner, near the surface of the tank, he looked like he was having a hard time regulating his swim bladder, he also did not begin to move immediately, I thought he might have been lost. He did however dart away when I opened the lid, I lowered the water to ~4 gallons, so the water was about 0.5" over a pot standing up, I moved jack and the airstone to the pot, he sank in the pot to the bottom. Jack jumped out and back in the pot several times during the night.

3/7/13
  • Ammonia: 0
  • Nitrites: 0
  • Nitrates: < 0.5
    [HR][/HR]
  • Activity:
    • Ate at 12:00 PM, Ate again at 6:30 after water change.
 

Feb 18, 2013
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#30
Hmm I cannot edit the prior post, however I've added a couple of new pics. one from 3-5-13 and one from 3-7-13, both with the hood light on.

Most recent https://www.dropbox.com/s/54b71uh56egp0tt/Then%20and%20Now.jpg

There are numerous area's that are lightening on his body, I am confused by this, the area around his head, and his gills, as well as in different area's of his body are turning white. They look very much like his original coloration, a shiny pearl white, so hopefully this is a sign that the nitrate poisoning is reversing, could it be something else ?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s26b7ovyandv3yt/02-18-13.jpg

Since he has no real color in his flesh, I cannot be for sure. the pictures look a little fuzzy in this area, however in person it's very sharp, excluding the Ich bumps.
 

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FishDad

Superstar Fish
Mar 4, 2012
1,218
1
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Cleveland
#31
Rot, you seem to know exactly what you're doing, but all you've got is a 10 gallon with one fish. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say you've kept fish before. How long have you been in the hobby, if you don't mind me asking?
 

Feb 18, 2013
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#32
I'm not sure I know exactly what I'm doing, I've kept a few tanks, maybe a total of 10 years, it's been several years though since I've had a tank setup, probably a good 3-4, and probably 7-9 since I've started a new tank, so I'm learning \ relearning what I've forgotten.

I go to work, I come home for lunch, sometimes I change a couple of gallons of water for Jack, in the evenings I change his tank and I read anything that might pertain to Jack's situation, especially since Saturday. Fortunately for me, I learn quickly, unfortunately for Jack, I forgot a major step and he's the one suffering for it, I love my wife, generally speaking I hold animals in higher regard than most people, especially when they are depending on me, so I'm doing everything I can for Jack :)
 

FishDad

Superstar Fish
Mar 4, 2012
1,218
1
38
Cleveland
#33
I'm learning as I go as well. I started a year and a half ago with a 1 gallon tank for my son and quickly got pretty heavily into the hobby.

Sounds like Jack is in the best hands possible, good luck.
 

se-r altima

Medium Fish
Jan 23, 2012
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Aurora CO
#34
You might want to turn any lights out because malachite green is light sensitive and begins to break down with bright light. Also remove the carbon from the tank and turn up the temp so it speeds up the ich hatching to the free swimming stage. That's when you can kill them.
Good luck.
 

FishDad

Superstar Fish
Mar 4, 2012
1,218
1
38
Cleveland
#35
You might want to turn any lights out because malachite green is light sensitive and begins to break down with bright light. Also remove the carbon from the tank and turn up the temp so it speeds up the ich hatching to the free swimming stage. That's when you can kill them.
Good luck.
Thats good advice, I have heard that about the lighting.
 

Feb 18, 2013
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#36
Indeed everything I've read about the active ingredient, said to keep the lights off, so much so that there are threads on some forums stating Ich die in the dark ... while this is wrong, it's a little amusing.

Typically I perform a water change in the evening around 6, re-salt the water, add Jack back in, feed him, when he's done eating, I medicate the tank and turn off the light, 4-5 hours later I remove 2 gal of water and set his pot up where it is facing up for the night.

In the mornings before work I add 2-4 more drops of the med to the water, and at lunch I let him out of his pot to swim around and eat.

He had been eating a small pinch of food 3 times a day, since Saturday however he's only been getting 2, and a few Cichlid pellets.

Since he is still recovering from nitrite poisoning, I'll probably wait a few days to start raising the tank temp.
 

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Feb 18, 2013
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#37
Hmm, Ich + potential Fin rot ?

Jack is looking better every day, I am nearly confident that he will fully recover now.

I am not planning on removing water to confine him within his pot tonight since he is nearly a rosy pink vs orange, and his gills are now a pink color also.

I've created a collage of pictures with dates as I've taken them to show progress, today he refused to stay still so it's not great but it shows improvement over 03/07. Tomorrow I will feed him before placing his pot in his tank, so he will not go there immediately after eating.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/54b71uh56egp0tt/Then%20and%20Now.jpg


Water Stats:
All 0 due to complete water changes
Temp: 79 F

Plans:
  • Continue salt content at 0.35 oz / gallon for 10 days after ending Ich treatment, then decrease by 0.05 oz / gallon
  • Continue Ich Treatment, Ich still visible on Jack, will continue treatment for 10 days after no longer visible.
  • Daily complete water changes
  • Once Jack is his normal color, raise water temp a couple of degrees every hour to speed up Ich Life cycle.


Notes:
  • I've started using latex gloves both to better protect Jack, and to keep the Ich medication off of my skin.
  • The tip 1/16" of Jack's dorsal fin shows signs of damage, it could have been caused by the net, however I will be closely monitoring for signs of fin rot, including daily scrubs of his HOB. I had previously left water standing while cleaning his tank, ~30 min without circulation.

    Comparison of 02-21 vs 03-09

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/q6v6fvpx4eryxv6/Fin-Rot.bmp

Anyone experienced with fin rot care to chime in if it looks like finrot ? I've not seen any of his other fins affected.

All of the photo's thus far are in my dropbox shared here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2q7znmdhu27xiuv/zHSbrVWrlB