Hmm, API Master Master kit results.

Feb 18, 2013
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#1
Long story short, our 60 gal was setup without a pump \ airstone, to begin a fish less cycle. 3 weeks or so went by, bacteria bloom occurred, then week 4 and 5 came by. Fearful of the wrong kind of bacteria growing in the o2 deprived environment - I was also fearful that it may have been contaminated with Ich from using the same net between the tanks, I drained the tank. I let the tank sit, and air dry for a week.

03/04 I refilled with tap, added a dechlorinator, and began feeding the tank when I fed our other tank. I also added a bottle of Jungle Start Zyme.

Initially I did not record the tank stats nitrites only just started showing a few days ago. A few days ago I began to keep a log of the water conditions. I had not been testing Nitrates due to the Ammonia \ Nitrite levels being low. I tested yesterday and they are at 5 ppm.

I siphoned the substrate yesterday to remove some of the remaining rotting \ fuzzy flakes \ krill. Today's stats are more or less the same, a slight rise in nitrites.

Here's the Log: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AmeBKk9_sK0OdEVMUGcyb0dUN0JrcExLZ1dTekpBbFE#gid=0

Seeing as the stats are showing nitrates at 5 ppm and only minor changes to Ammonia \ Nitrites, I'm guessing there is still a fair amount of food captured in the filter decomposing.

Would it be better to wait and see if the nitrates begin to rise from 5 ppm, or do you think a partial filter cleaning to further remove decomposing food captured.

Side note, I've also removed the carbon, so the bacteria have more food to feed on.
 

FreshyFresh

Superstar Fish
Jan 11, 2013
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East Aurora, NY
#2
What are your actual ammonia and nitrite readings?

You are fishless cycling by adding fish-food?

You will have no ick if you have no fish in the tank. Even if you suspected the ick parasite got into the tank, it would die in a matter of days/week with no host to setup shop on.
 

Feb 18, 2013
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#3
What are your actual ammonia and nitrite readings?

You are fishless cycling by adding fish-food?

You will have no ick if you have no fish in the tank. Even if you suspected the ick parasite got into the tank, it would die in a matter of days/week with no host to setup shop on.
According to the same test kit,
2 for ammonia
0.5 for nitrite

Indeed, food goes in, decays, and produces ammonia, same as fish waste.

My primary concern was bad bacteria colonies forming, ich was enough to convince me to dump it.

I don't know why I didn't test it before, however I tested the tap and it also registered 5 ppm for nitrate, so I'm going to say the test is faulty, kit expiration is 2017.

Anyone else able to elicit a 0.0 reading on nitrAtes with api freshwater master test kit ?

Otherwise issue is resolved.
 

FishDad

Superstar Fish
Mar 4, 2012
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Cleveland
#4
however I tested the tap and it also registered 5 ppm for nitrate.
Depending on where you live, that can be perfectly normal. To be honest I havn't tested for nitrates in a long time. With API it has room for error. Plus I have always been satisfied with ammonia and nitrite readings. I do weekly water changes regardless.

This is a really weird concidence, but I actually tested by nitrates earlier today for the first time in many months and they clocked in (125g) somewhere in the 5,10,20 ppm range. Those colors look vitrually indistinguishable to me.

Hope that helps.
 

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Feb 27, 2009
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#5
I don't know why I didn't test it before, however I tested the tap and it also registered 5 ppm for nitrate, so I'm going to say the test is faulty, kit expiration is 2017.
Why would you assume that the test results are faulty?

Check with your local water company to see what the nitrate readings are for your area currently.

When I lived in Iowa, it was not unusual to have a reading of 5ppm nitrate for a tank, do a 50% water change, and have 10ppm nitrates an hour later. Run-off from lawns and farming was the cause.

Even now, with nothing much yet growing, the Iowa water quality report:

Water Quality Data | Des Moines Water Works

shows 1.73 mg/L (which is close to ppm). So a test kit would show something, not zero.
 

Feb 18, 2013
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#6
Hmm, I've never experienced nitrates in tap, through we are new to the area, and our last place was filtered I'm guessing.

http://ok-poncacity.civicplus.com/DocumentCenter/View/2275

Thanks OC for suggesting we check locally I really appreciate it, the 2011 report shows 0.77 ppm, I'm a little peeved that 2012 is not out, I'll call and see if there is a more recent report.

Why would you assume that the test results are faulty?
I assumed faulty due to Jungle test strips being at 0 on tap, however the rest of the readings are very close, though the test strips go from 0 ppm to 20 ppm, I figured 5ppm would show some color, guess not.

I read the API as suggested against the white background of the chart, then I ensure light is passing through the center of the tube and pick the closest indicator.
 

Feb 18, 2013
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#7
I performed a 20 % wc today, trying to figure out why my nitrates were high while having ammonia and nitrites still very high. Killed my nitrites completely, I dechlorinated the water, then added, hoping to show nitrites again tomorrow and the bb is still alive.

Which brings me to a new thread.

Thanks again OC
 

FreshyFresh

Superstar Fish
Jan 11, 2013
1,337
23
38
East Aurora, NY
#9
Indeed, food goes in, decays, and produces ammonia, same as fish waste.
I understand that. But there's a lot less messy/smelly ways proven to achieving this.

My primary concern was bad bacteria colonies forming, ich was enough to convince me to dump it.
Like said, no fish in the tank, no ick. That's a very well proven fact.

I don't know why I didn't test it before, however I tested the tap and it also registered 5 ppm for nitrate, so I'm going to say the test is faulty, kit expiration is 2017.
Some municipalities register as high as 20ppm nitrates in tap water. Yuck.

Anyone else able to elicit a 0.0 reading on nitrAtes with api freshwater master test kit ?
Mine stays as yellow as the color chart for tap water. Like FishDad, I have a hard time deciphering 5,10,20ppm nitrates with the API kit measuring my tanks, but that's OK by me. Any tinge of red to the nitrate test and you know you have to modify your water change routine.
 

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