Asking advice on Sump design and Overflow

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ryanm19

Medium Fish
#1
Feb 6, 2008
99
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Lawrence, KS
#1
Hey everyone, well my 65 gallon reef has been up and running for 1 year! *celebrate
But.... I'm wanting to finally get a sump. I should have got one at the beginning but didn't know to much and didn't get one.
I am thinking about getting an overflow box from Lifereef after hearing a lot of great things about them. I'm not quite sure on which one I should get.
Here is a link:prefilter box, siphon box, overflow box, siphon overflow, Eurobrace, Euro-brace, Euro-tank
Any comments about these overflow boxes would be great!
The next question I have is on a skimmer. I am looking at purchasing a Octopus 160 extreme. It's a little overkill but i've heard great things from this company.
Now finally to the sump. In order to get what I want for the space I have under my tank, I will be using a 20 gallon for the skimmer and return sections, and then a separate 5 gallon tank for a refugium. I've attached some pictures of my design. I'm thinking of this: Skimmer>Return<Refugium
I have little knowledge on return pumps. What is a reliable pump for my setup that won't add too much heat into the water?

Hopefully I've made everything clear. Any advice/comments would be very helpfull. Thanks!

Side View:


Top View:
 

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TRe

TRe

Elite Fish
#4
Feb 20, 2005
3,645
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ft. lauderdale
#4
thats a great skimmer choice! after lots of research i just bought one for my new 82g build... actually i got a swc ex160 but its exactly the same and only reason i got it was cause i found a good deal on a used one for $180 and jumped on it.... on the sump design you may have problems with bubbles getting back into the display tank... may be better idea to have the water from the fuge drain into the skimmer section that way it goes thru the baffles to eliminate the micro bubbles!
 

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ryanm19

Medium Fish
#5
Feb 6, 2008
99
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0
Lawrence, KS
#5
would if I put a baffle in the 20 gallon right after where the water comes in from the refugium? would that cut down on the bubbles?
also how does my choice of overflow sound? I'm thinking about getting the one that is rated up to 600 gph.
 

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ryanm19

Medium Fish
#8
Feb 6, 2008
99
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Lawrence, KS
#8
so any comments about that extra baffle idea?
and KahluaZzZ, I don't see how my fuge section will have a more consistent water level than my protein section. please explain. thanks
Also, I'm pretty sure this type of skimmer won't fit in that 5 gallon.
 

KahluaZzZ

KahluaZzZ

Superstar Fish
#9
Jun 12, 2004
2,778
3
0
48
Montreal, Quebec
Visit site
#9
ok..(on my pic) if you put your skimmer in the separate container at the right, the water that comes down from the tank is always leveled, because there is an overflow. Once it drops into the real sump, it isn't..because there will be some evaporation. The water level will not be the same if you add your new water too. Friday i did some aquarium maintenance for a guy who has a similar skimmer, a clone but same design, and when i did his water change i noticed that it needed to be adjusted after that. Some skimmer will overflow, this one wasn't but still needed to be tweaked because of his dependency on water level/air pressure. It isn't crucial, but it can help.
 

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ryanm19

Medium Fish
#10
Feb 6, 2008
99
0
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Lawrence, KS
#10
i always thought that the only section that loses water due to evaporation is the return section because it is the lowest section in the whole sump, and also my skimmer section won't evaporate because of the baffles. but correct me if this is wrong.
 

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epond83

Large Fish
#11
Mar 11, 2007
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#11
I'm not an expert but i have looked in to designs a bit. On your line in I would have the valves turned down as lest as possible (mostly turned down on the refug) so that you don't over flow the main tank. Leave both full open when frst starting then turn down just the one you want less flow on. you could probably design it with one but probably easier with two.

A set of baffels after the fuge will work to remove bubbles just as it would for the skimmer, i think this is a good set up so that the refug can have a slower dwell then the skimmer especially since you are looking at a really good skimmer. However if your flow is low through the refug and the inlet to the return isn't next to the pump you maybe be ok, but better safe then sorry if you can fit them in.

I think that if your refug is routed to the skimmer section you would be skimming out and pods that would be reproducing in there. I'm guessing you are going to have a DSB and Macro algea in there? You shouldn't need a valve going from the refug to the return section since the only inlet will have a valve.

For your return have a t fitting going to the tank and have the side part route back to the sump (skimmer if you are worried about bubles). On this line have the valve. When runing full open all water will go back to the sump and as you close the valve more water will go to the main tank, this way your pump won't have any extra resistance.


Also you have a valve on the single line coming from the tank, if you have two afterwards they will get the job done, too many valves can cause a flooded room, so simple is a good way to go.
 

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epond83

Large Fish
#12
Mar 11, 2007
483
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0
#12
ryanm19 said:
i always thought that the only section that loses water due to evaporation is the return section because it is the lowest section in the whole sump, and also my skimmer section won't evaporate because of the baffles. but correct me if this is wrong.
Click to expand...
Yes the only section that will flucuate in the section the return pump is in since the others have baffles to maintain water level.
 

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ryanm19

Medium Fish
#13
Feb 6, 2008
99
0
0
Lawrence, KS
#13
thanks a bunch epond83!
I'll try and see if I can fit in some extra baffles after the fuge, and I also like your idea of having a T after the return to cut down on bubbles. This also makes some water go back through the skimmer!
 

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ryanm19

Medium Fish
#14
Feb 6, 2008
99
0
0
Lawrence, KS
#14
wait sorry, epond are you saying have one inlet going to the fuge? and then after this it goes to the return and then to a T, where then it will go to the skimmer section and display?
or saying two inlet tubes, fuge side being turned down more, and then it goes through skimmer and fuge sections, and then to return and to the T. If the water has already gone through the skimmer section, would the T just be there to circulate the water through the sump more? or is it there just to help cut down on bubbles, and cut back on pressure on the pump having the ball valve not directly above the pump?
 

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epond83

Large Fish
#15
Mar 11, 2007
483
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#15
ryanm19 said:
thanks a bunch epond83!
I'll try and see if I can fit in some extra baffles after the fuge, and I also like your idea of having a T after the return to cut down on bubbles. This also makes some water go back through the skimmer!
Click to expand...
The main of the T off the pump is that you can cut the flow down from your pump going back to the display but not restrict the pump which many believe is bad for them ( i do not know enough to say one way or another. As for where the the extra T leads to, i think most just go back to the return section but you could have it go to the skimmer if it creates to many bubbles but i don't think it would.

I would have two inputs to the sump, one on the skimmer side and one on the fuge side. then they both dump into the return to go back to the display. lower flow in the fuge gives more time for all the good stuff to happen plus less bubbles going into the return. I've seen some fuges go straight into returns with just a baffle with teeth cut into it as long as the water doesn't fall to far. Here is a great site i've learned a lot from and it has pictures! Melevsreef.com | Acrylic Sumps & Refugiums

This is one you are basically trying to design Melevsreef.com | Acrylic Sumps & Refugiums
 

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epond83

Large Fish
#17
Mar 11, 2007
483
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#17
Well yes you are right, that's why when you set up your sump you run the pump a little low on water then stop it to see how high it goes since some water flows back down from the Display tank, then add water to the working level, and make it. never adding more then that.

Tis is why you try to make your other sections as deep as possible so that your return can hold as much water as possible.
 

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ryanm19

Medium Fish
#18
Feb 6, 2008
99
0
0
Lawrence, KS
#18
thanks epond, I've checked out melevsreef before, but I just wanted to get some confirmation from you guys.
Should I have a baffle from the intake into the fuge or not. If I have it dialed down I would think not.
Also what kind of pump do you suggest? I've been looking at a mag7 but not quite sure. I'm on the edge of needing a cooler but would definitly not like to get one, so I don't want a pump that will create excess heat. And I have about 4.5 ft back up to the display.
 

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epond83

Large Fish
#19
Mar 11, 2007
483
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0
#19
Baffels are just to cut down on bubbles which doesn't matter in the fuge so don't worry about baffels in the fuge.

Mag pumps seem to be popular, i've never used one but propably would if i was setting up a tank. If you don't want to had more heat you could use an external pump like the little giants.
 

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ryanm19

Medium Fish
#20
Feb 6, 2008
99
0
0
Lawrence, KS
#20
Does anyone know how much the temp would increase in my 65 gallon tank if I used a mag pump? I've read from some reviews that the temperature difference is small but from others it's somewhat significant.
Also, what can you guys tell me about eheim pumps?
 

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