I only have the ammonia test and I do that every morning. It's still the same, a 7 or 8. I was told that the ammonia test is the only one I need. And why do I need 2 do a water change before I get fish? I tested the water out of the tap its the same ammonia level as the water in the tank. Wouldn't that screw things up again?
Aw, sh*t, you probably have chloramine in your tap water, which is actually quite common. It's not dangerous to you or your fish, but it makes it hard for you to get an accurate reading on your free ammonia. Commercial water tests will show total ammonia, which includes both free ammonia (read: toxic to fish) as well as the non-toxic bound ammonia, which is kinda what chloramine is. Getting a test that only shows free ammonia is apparently possible, but really expensive.
The fact that your tap water and tank water show the same level of total ammonia suggests that your tank water has little or no free ammonia yet - which makes sense, 'cause your tank has only been set up for a short time, and you have only added a bit of fish food so far. So record the baseline ammonia reading of your tapwater, and then track how the readings in your tank spike as you add a source of ammonia.
When you have your tank cycled, and you do water changes with tap water, you are adding small amounts of chloramine (safe) to the water. Plus, a cycled tank will have the established bacteria colonies to convert ammonia into nitrates - fish poop, uneaten fish food, and rotting plants are all sources of ammonia that will be in your tank constantly. And there is a product you can buy (OrangeCones has been recommending it lately - I'll have to go search for the brand name) that sticks to your glass and alerts you to any free ammonia in your tank water. To know whether your tank is fully cycled or not, you will still want a test for nitrites and nitrates.
Hope this makes sense - it's late right now
Cheers,
Laura