Beginner and need help

lauraf

Superstar Fish
Jan 1, 2010
2,181
0
0
Vancouver, British Columbia
#21
Test your water for ammonia and nitrites daily - you can even post the results here and we'll let you know how you are doing with the cycling process. When you have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and are showing some nitrates, then you do a nice big water change and you are ready to add a few fish!
 

Hanna87

Medium Fish
Mar 21, 2011
94
0
0
Iowa
#22
I only have the ammonia test and I do that every morning. It's still the same, a 7 or 8. I was told that the ammonia test is the only one I need. And why do I need 2 do a water change before I get fish? I tested the water out of the tap its the same ammonia level as the water in the tank. Wouldn't that screw things up again?
 

Hanna87

Medium Fish
Mar 21, 2011
94
0
0
Iowa
#23
Also, iv read on other threads that people are taking something out of a friends tank to speed up the cycling process. My father in law has a tank. Could I do the same?
 

Nov 5, 2009
260
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CT
#24
I only have the ammonia test and I do that every morning. It's still the same, a 7 or 8. I was told that the ammonia test is the only one I need. And why do I need 2 do a water change before I get fish? I tested the water out of the tap its the same ammonia level as the water in the tank. Wouldn't that screw things up again?
you don't add water straight from the tap into the tank. you first add water conditioners that remove and neutralize things like chlorine and ammonia. adding straight tap water during a water change will almost certainly kill your fish

Also, iv read on other threads that people are taking something out of a friends tank to speed up the cycling process. My father in law has a tank. Could I do the same?
it may speed it up a little but in my opinion its not worth the effort. easier just to wait for the tank to cycle itself.
 

Hanna87

Medium Fish
Mar 21, 2011
94
0
0
Iowa
#25
I did that when I filled the tank. So when I do a waterchange I add that to each bucket before I put it in the tank? I think that's what your saying. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 

Oct 29, 2010
384
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0
#26
Also, iv read on other threads that people are taking something out of a friends tank to speed up the cycling process. My father in law has a tank. Could I do the same?
Yes, this is definitely best! The only problem is possible spread of disease, so make sure your father in law's tank is healthy.

Take filter gunk or gravel :)
 

Aug 13, 2010
870
0
0
Sicklerville, NJ
#28
you don't add water straight from the tap into the tank. you first add water conditioners that remove and neutralize things like chlorine and ammonia. adding straight tap water during a water change will almost certainly kill your fish


it may speed it up a little but in my opinion its not worth the effort. easier just to wait for the tank to cycle itself.

I always add water straight from my tap using my python and have never lost any fish because of it. Just do not forget to the conditioner.

Again I have to respectfully disagree...If you take a filter from an established tank, squeeze all the gunk out into your filter, your tank will cycle much quicker, almost right away. You will need to still check the parameters before you add fish.
 

Nov 5, 2009
260
0
0
CT
#29
I always add water straight from my tap using my python and have never lost any fish because of it. Just do not forget to the conditioner.
that may be but you have to agree it is certainly safer to add the water conditioner first.

Again I have to respectfully disagree...If you take a filter from an established tank, squeeze all the gunk out into your filter, your tank will cycle much quicker, almost right away. You will need to still check the parameters before you add fish.
ya i thought about what i posted and realized i was wrong there but i still stand by adding water conditioner first before throwing tap water in with your fish
 

lauraf

Superstar Fish
Jan 1, 2010
2,181
0
0
Vancouver, British Columbia
#32
I only have the ammonia test and I do that every morning. It's still the same, a 7 or 8. I was told that the ammonia test is the only one I need. And why do I need 2 do a water change before I get fish? I tested the water out of the tap its the same ammonia level as the water in the tank. Wouldn't that screw things up again?
Aw, sh*t, you probably have chloramine in your tap water, which is actually quite common. It's not dangerous to you or your fish, but it makes it hard for you to get an accurate reading on your free ammonia. Commercial water tests will show total ammonia, which includes both free ammonia (read: toxic to fish) as well as the non-toxic bound ammonia, which is kinda what chloramine is. Getting a test that only shows free ammonia is apparently possible, but really expensive.
The fact that your tap water and tank water show the same level of total ammonia suggests that your tank water has little or no free ammonia yet - which makes sense, 'cause your tank has only been set up for a short time, and you have only added a bit of fish food so far. So record the baseline ammonia reading of your tapwater, and then track how the readings in your tank spike as you add a source of ammonia.
When you have your tank cycled, and you do water changes with tap water, you are adding small amounts of chloramine (safe) to the water. Plus, a cycled tank will have the established bacteria colonies to convert ammonia into nitrates - fish poop, uneaten fish food, and rotting plants are all sources of ammonia that will be in your tank constantly. And there is a product you can buy (OrangeCones has been recommending it lately - I'll have to go search for the brand name) that sticks to your glass and alerts you to any free ammonia in your tank water. To know whether your tank is fully cycled or not, you will still want a test for nitrites and nitrates.
Hope this makes sense - it's late right now ;)
Cheers,
Laura
 

Hanna87

Medium Fish
Mar 21, 2011
94
0
0
Iowa
#33
So what your saying is I still need to go out and purchase pure ammonia? I took some rocks from my father in laws tank, and tested his tank just to see where his was and it was perfect. So I added the rocks to mine last night and tested it this morning and its still the same. About a 7.
 

Hanna87

Medium Fish
Mar 21, 2011
94
0
0
Iowa
#34
If I get a test for nitrate and nitrite will that cloramine still screw with those tests? And will the cloramine go away? It got a whole lot more confusing.
 

aakaakaak

Superstar Fish
Sep 9, 2010
1,324
0
0
Chesapeake, Virginia
#35
Instead of using just a couple rocks (Unless it's live rock for a saltwater tank) I would suggest getting some old filter media and/or a cup or three of substrate stuffed into a nylon and hung from the side of the tank from your dad's tank.
 

Hanna87

Medium Fish
Mar 21, 2011
94
0
0
Iowa
#36
That's awsome! Just found the bottle of what I THOUGHT was the declorinate, which is what petsmart told us it was and its safe start. It says nothing about chlorine. Is that the problem? Or am I wrong!? Did petsmart just f*** us over?
 

lauraf

Superstar Fish
Jan 1, 2010
2,181
0
0
Vancouver, British Columbia
#38
Hanna, if you can get some filter media and/or a few handfuls of gravel from your father-in-law's tank, you can add a couple of hardy fish right away. Take it slow and add more fish gradually - you need to give the bacteria in the media time to colonize and grow enough to eat up the ammonia produced by fish waste. You still need a test for nitrates at least, so you know how frequently you need to do water changes (when nitrates go above 20 it's time). The chloramine in your tap water will only affect your ammonia readings. Safe Start is really only to be used when setting up a new tank - you will need another product to dechlorinate your tap water for when you are doing your regular water changes - many people on this forum highly recommend Prime by Seachem, which removes chlorine and chloramines.
 

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