Dirty Water

sony

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Oct 28, 2004
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#1
Hello

My tank is about 2 month old. Recently water is brown and dirty. I just changed 50% of water two weeks ago, and it is dirty again. Also I got brown and green Algae too.

I have read some articles online, it seems that I am experiencing the last step of cycling process. The questions are: if it is bacteria bloom, should I change water? If I should, should I vacuum gravel? What should I do?

Thanks

Sony
 

May 9, 2005
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West Haven, CT
#4
You need to get a test kit, test the water daily at this point. If you have any quantity of the thig you're testing (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate etc) then you need to do a water change. This could mean that you are doing daily water changes of maybe around 30%.

Do you condition your water? If you are using anything with chloramine and or chlorine, you should condition it (ammoloc or prime are good brands). In addition, these bind to the ammonia and convert it to a non-dangerous form that is ok for fish and still used by bacteria. There is disagreement as to whether this is actually helping with ammonia or other chemicals it claims to, but during cycling when you have fish in the tank, I would definately use it. If you test after adding it, you'll still get an ammonia reading though.

The only way to get rid of nirtite and nitrate is water changes. Also nitrite is very harmful (along with ammonia), nitrate not as much so.

Lisa
 

May 9, 2005
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#5
I forgot, once cycled and nitrite and ammonia are 0ppm and nitrate is low, then you should need to clean only once a week, vacuum every 2 weeks or so, and water changes I think monthly (I haven't fallen into a steady routine yet). Best to change water when needed.
 

sony

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Oct 28, 2004
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#6
Thank you for your reply, Lisa. One more question: after the tank cycled, should water be clean and clear? Or, no matterwhat, I have to use chemical if I want water to be clear?

Thanks

Sony
 

FroggyFox

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May 16, 2003
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#8
righto....chemicals are BAD!! The big key is regular water changes and gravel vac. EVERY time I do a water change I gravel vac. You have the right balance of fish, the right balance of water changes everything should balance out and then your tank will be "established" instead of that pesky new phase.

Right now just for the sake of your fish (not even worrying about what the tank LOOKS like) You should be changing a lot more water than you are...I'm sure the nitrite is really high if you have only done one 50% water change and high nitrite exposure for your fish for long periods can be deadly.

Also...I would NEVER use ammolock in a tank...it screws with your test kit ammonia readings...when your ammonia is easily taken care of by the bacteria in the tank...there's just no reason to pay more for something that isn't necessary. Many people use prime or stresscoat or a generic version. You just need something that dechlorinates.

Algae is a result of having too many nitrates in your tank probably and too much or too little light...and a sign that you dont have any bottom feeders/cleanup crew :)
 

FroggyFox

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#10
nope...ammolock contains chemicals that turn ammonia into a 'less lethal' version of ammonia (I'm not real great with chemistry) and then continue to screw with your test results. Prime is just a generic dechlorinator. Personally I use Bigal's generic version of stress coat which is just basically a dechlorinator with some other stuff mixed in like aloe.
 

May 9, 2005
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#12
wait, my prime says it removes chlorramine, chlorine, ammonia, nitrate nitrite and provides slime coat.

when I used ammoloc, I was aware that it would bind with the ammonia, but it would not register as being removed. therefore when you test your water, since there was still ammonia, though bound and unharmful (but still useful to the beneficial bact.), it will still give you an ammonia reading. Not messing with the test, just an inaccuate reading of danger. but knowing that you put the stuff in, you know it is safe.

interesting stuff.
let me know what you heard different!
 

FroggyFox

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#13
Yes sony...that sounds perfect.

Lisa...I've never actually used Prime...so if it says that then maybe I'm thinking of the wrong product. I'll see if I can find one of those threads about what dechlorinator people use. At any rate...I wouldn't ever bother with something like that because its just plain not necessary, but to each his own. The aloe in the product I use isn't necessary either...but I got it cheap and it seems to work well...plus it doesn't mess with my test results.
 

#14
Here's what Seachem says about Prime:
Q: I am using Prime™ to control ammonia but my test kit says it is not doing anything, in fact it looks like it added ammonia! What is going on?
A: A Nessler based kit will not read ammonia properly if you are using Prime™... it will look "off scale", sort of a muddy brown (incidentally a Nessler kit will not work with any other products similar to Prime™). A salicylate based kit can be used, but with caution. Under the conditions of a salicylate kit the ammonia-Prime complex will be broken down eventually giving a false reading of ammonia (same as with other products like Prime™), so the key with a salicylate kit is to take the reading right away.
I'm surprised, cause I thought it DIDN'T affect ammonia readings, but it does. I still like it as a dechlor tho, because you don't have to put in so much...I only have to use 2-3 DROPS per gallon. Plus, as opposed to conditioners with aloe, i don't get the oil-like slime on the top of my water (tho my apple snails did like to eat this). I use a salicylate test kit, and i do usually test right after i use it, or a couple days later, and usually do not get ammonia readings unless there is some actually present for whatever reason.
 

May 9, 2005
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West Haven, CT
#15
I haven't noticed the slime...I think my tank is aggitated enough. I use the aquapharm test kit...don't know if that is nessler based. My colors don't get messed, they jsut say I still have ammo. I need it for the dechloro. anyway, it is cheap, easy to get, and a little goes a long way! I agree, I don't like the aloe, just because I'd rather not use things that aren't necessary (and the nitrite/nitrate detoxifer).

lisa
 

sony

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Oct 28, 2004
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#16
Hi, everyone:

I tested water, everything is good. But I still have brown clumpy things which I think they are brown Algae.

But it is strange, the tank is not under direct sunlight, and I keep only about 6 hours tank light a day. I do 20% water change every week, vacuum sand, clean glass and plastic plant. But water gets cloudy in two days, and algae comes back.

Oh, god, my tank is so dirty!!

help please

Sony
 

#17
this just happens with a new tank, and 100x worse with a tank that was fish-in cycled...keep at the water changes and wait...there was a good month where I could hardly see the inside of my 29g, and I could wipe brown algae off the inside of the tank daily...wanted to chuck the tank it was so ugly...then things started to balance out and the water cleared up...but it did take a while.

You may want to try dropping down to one feeding per day, every other day...the less food you put in the tank the less the algae will have to feed off of.
 

#19
I repeat:

this just happens with a new tank, and 100x worse with a tank that was fish-in cycled...keep at the water changes and wait...there was a good month where I could hardly see the inside of my 29g, and I could wipe brown algae off the inside of the tank daily...wanted to chuck the tank it was so ugly...then things started to balance out and the water cleared up...but it did take a while.

You may want to try dropping down to one feeding per day, every other day...the less food you put in the tank the less the algae will have to feed off of.