Extensive African Dwarf Frog Article/FAQ

Leopardess

Superstar Fish
#1
Common Name: African Dwarf frogs
Scientific Name: Hymenochirus boettgeri
Temperature: 70-84F
Max Size: 1.5 in


What are African Dwarf frogs (ADF’s)?

ADF’s are fully aquatic frogs that spend their entire life under water. They do not need, or use, land at any point in their life.

If they are fully aquatic, how do they breathe? I don’t see any gills.

They breathe much like a betta or other anabantoids - except they cannot take any air in directly from the water. If you watch a frog for a few minutes, you will see that they come up to the surface very quickly and strike the water. This is them taking in a gulp of air (sometimes, they will let out little bubbles after they take a breath). Then, they will frantically swim back down to the bottom - and they usually don’t care if anything is in their way! Rocks, plants, fish - doesn’t matter. They’ll just zoom to the substrate.

Are these the same thing as African Clawed frogs?

Absolutely not! Clawed frogs get many, many times larger than African Dwarf frogs and will harm and/or eat even large fish, and will eat small fish.

How do I know if I have an African Dwarf frog and NOT an African Clawed frog?

The fastest way to tell, assuming the frogs are very young, at which point Clawed frogs will be similar in size to ADF’s, is to look at their front feet. If they are webbed, they are African Dwarf frogs. If the front feet are not webbed, it is a clawed frog. Also, for the most part, there are no albino ADF’s. If you see a frog that is albino, it is safe to assume that it’s a Clawed frog.

But my supposed ADF has claws! Isn’t that a Clawed frog?

No. True ADF’s do have very small claws. They have three black claws on each of their hind feet. They do not use them to attack fish or eat their food.

The claws are evident in this picture of a frog lazily floating above a CO2 jet.



What kind of set-up does my frog require?

The best set-ups will be between 5 gallons and 29 gallons. The reason for these numbers is that 5 gallons of water is much easier to maintain than a smaller amount. If one can be very conscientious about water quality and sustaining consistent water parameters, a tank of 2.5 gallons would be acceptable for a frog or two. Tanks that are larger than 29 gallons can make finding your frog difficult since they do like to hide out, and because of ADF’s eating habits, they can be difficult to feed in larger tanks.

Frogs, just like fish, are sensitive to ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. Therefore, these frogs require a filter. Any filter that is acceptable for fish is acceptable for the frogs. However, there are a few things to keep in mind when selecting the filter: 1) Frogs are not very strong and can easily be sucked up against a very over-powered filter; 2) Small/weak frogs are especially susceptible to this happening and it is advisable to ensure that the filter intake is covered - their arms and legs can get caught inside and broken. Sponges/small filter covers will work.

Frogs also require a heater. Temperatures between 70-82F degrees are acceptable, though frogs can withstand higher temperatures around 86F if unavoidable (during summer months, for instance).

African Dwarf frogs can be a little shy and require a few hiding spaces. Caves made from smooth, aquarium-safe rocks make ideal hiding places. They also appreciate plants to hide/rest in. Without sufficient hiding places, African Dwarf frogs have been known to become restless and unhappy - especially if the tank has bright lighting.

If you are setting up a Frog-Only tank, you may want to consider using a smooth sand substrate. These frogs really like to dig around looking for food or making a little hole to sit in. Sand is also very gentle on their skin since they are almost always in contact with the substrate. ADF’s, however, will be perfectly fine if placed with regular aquarium gravel -anything that isn’t particularly sharp will work.

But no matter what type of tank you use, it ABSOLUTELY MUST BE COVERED. Use duct tape if necessary to eliminate any and all gaps near filters. ADF’s are notorious jumpers and will sometimes fly out of the water when striking the surface for air. These little guys won’t live very long on your carpet, so make sure that there is no way for them to escape!


Can I keep more than 1 African Dwarf frog in my tank, or will they fight?

Keeping more than 1 frog in a tank is perfectly acceptable. In fact, it can be a lot of fun to watch several frogs interacting with each other. They are very peaceful towards one another and may even sleep piled on top of each other! As far as how many can be kept together, that depends on tank size. A very general rule to follow would be that one African Dwarf frog is approximately equal to a small/medium tetra, in terms of bioload.

Can African Dwarf Frogs be kept with fish, too?

Yes, although it naturally depends on the fish. Just as some fish do not get along together, some fish are not a good combination with African Dwarf frogs. Tankmates that would not be suitable are fish that are nippy (Tiger Barbs), are aggressive and/or have large mouths (most cichlids and any large fish that is capable of consuming a small frog), or stake out their own territory on the substrate (loaches/catfish). Fish that are suitable include most peaceful community fish: tetras, rasboras, otocinclus, corydoras sp., gouramis, bettas, etc.

Most frogs can even be safely kept with smaller fish such as pygmy corydoras and shrimp.

HOWEVER: Problems can/do arise when ADF’s are kept with fish. The biggest problem is that the fish will try to consume all of the food before the frog can eat - which will eventually starve the frog. Frogs must be carefully fed and monitored to prevent this when in a community tank.

I have heard conflicting advice about whether or not I can keep ADF’s with Bettas, which is true?

Well, that all depends. Normally, African Dwarf frogs make excellent tankmates for Bettas. Mostly, the deciding factor in this situation is the temperament of the Betta the frogs will be housed with. Some bettas will not tolerate anything else with them and will nip and bite the frog. Many, if not most, bettas, will only regard the frog with mild interest and will then move on to their own business.

Sometimes, people will say that their ADF’s are vicious and attack their betta’s fins. But! - this is usually a case of mistaken identity that may be easily remedied. Also, the damage that the frog inflicts is often unnoticeable - they simply grabbed onto the betta’s fins with their mouth and hung on for a second or two while the fish moved around, trying to get the frog off.

It is relatively safe to assume that the frog saw the betta’s colorful, flowing tail and thought “Mmmm. Dinner,” and tried to take a nibble. It is generally a very innocent mistake - a mistake that occurs mostly because frogs have poor eyesight.

This may also be an indication of a hungry frog. If your frog begins to bite onto your betta’s tail, simply start feeding them more so that they are not interested in trying to get a meal out of the fish!

What do I feed my African Dwarf frog?

Because the frogs spend most of their time at the bottom of the tank, foods that float are a very poor choice for frogs. Flakes will often get eaten by the fish before the frogs can get to them and will quickly dissolve into the water - which doesn’t do anyone any good.

Sinking foods, such as Shrimp Pellets, can be used, but they carry some problems. Because frogs cannot see very well, they must use their sense of smell to detect food. Much of the time, the pellets may dissolve into the water before the frogs find them (Foods that remain uneaten and foul up the water are one of the reasons some people mistakenly believe frogs to be messy. In reality, it’s the method that is being used to feed them that is dirty!). Some frogs may try to eat the pellet before it has soften, which can cause intestinal problems leading to bloat/blockage and possibly death.

One method that works well for both the frog and the owner is to use either a small turkey baster-like apparatus (or even the little things that come with test kits to suck water out of the tank and into the test tube), or a pair of long tweezers (For example: Tweezers like these) . Then, use Frozen Bloodworms. Thaw the worms in a small cup. When thawed, grab a couple using either the tweezers or the turkey-baster and dangle them in front of your frog. They will strike quickly and will swallow them whole. This works for feeding other items, such as freeze dried worms, very small pieces of frozen krill (too big and the pieces can be hard to digest), peas, or whatever your frog likes to eat.

Using a method like this one ensures that the frogs are eating enough and that the fish cannot get the food that is meant for the frog.

Feed the frog until its belly is rounded and full looking.

How often do I feed my frogs?

A good way to judge how much you should feed your frogs is to look at their tummies. If the stomach is flat, it is time to be fed. If the stomach is round, it is safe to wait until the stomach is flat. Fairly easy. If, for whatever reason, this is difficult to determine, feed every other day. If you do not think your frog is gaining any weight (they should be slightly pudgy when adults) try increasing their food intake slightly.
 

Leopardess

Superstar Fish
#2
Continued....

Do I have a girl frog, or a boy frog?

Sexing can be difficult when the frogs are young and very small, but as they become a little more mature, it is much easier to distinguish.

Males: Behind the front arms (on their side), males have distinct white “bumps” or “pads.” These are mating pads which help the male grasp the female during mating. While some females have small, indistinct pads, males will have very prominent ones.

Females: Females have small protrusions between their back legs - where a tail would be.

This shows a female - Notice the lack of white pads behind her arms.



Can I breed my frogs?

Yes, it is possible to breed them in an aquarium setting but it is very difficult and many resources should be consulted to ensure proper care. The young are very hard to feed due to their small size when they are tadpoles.

Occasionally, you may hear a buzzing sound coming from your tank - something that sounds like an electrical hum or rattling filter. This is the sound of a male frog that is “in the mood.” Not all frogs will do it, so don’t be alarmed that your frogs aren’t happy if you don’t hear this sound.


What’s that white skin hanging off my frog? Is he sick?

No, he’s probably fine. ADF’s shed their skin! They do it much like a snake. It will start in a few pieces (immediately before shedding the frog will look a little dull and his eyes may appear milky) and it will eventually peel off of their entire body. Where does it go? They eat it! A little unaPEELing, perhaps, but a nutritious treat nonetheless.

Some frogs will shed every week, some will naturally shed much less. It can often be hard to notice since they may do it in the night. Just don’t be alarmed if it looks like his skin is falling off!

My frog doesn’t swim around very much and stays in weird positions. Is he okay?

Chances are, he’s fine. ADF’s can be very lazy creatures, and some prefer hanging around one spot all day. Some will hide in their cave, some will come out and balance on their two hind feet for hours. Some will float at the surface as if they are dead (Don’t be too alarmed at first. Poke them gently if you feel the need and they should prove to be quite alive.). Some will do headstands and some will practice odd Yoga positions. It’s just their amusing nature.

Are ADF’s okay to keep in my planted tank, or will they harm the plants?

Directly? No. Indirectly? Maybe a little. That is, frogs will not eat your plants. They may nibble at algae (only because they see a strand of squiggly hair algae as a potential delicious worm) or because they think a snail on the leaf might be tasty (until they realize that snails have shells!), but they have no interest in eating your plants.

However, ADF’s like to hide under leaves and may cause initial trouble if trying to establish a new ground cover such as glosso or dwarf hair grass, but once the plant takes root and grows, it will be fine.
 

Leopardess

Superstar Fish
#3
Ok folks. There it is. I've noticed a lot of ADF questions over time, and here is hopefully what will answer many of them.

If you see anything that you would like added or have questions not in the article, let me know and I'll try to answer them and add them in.

At the very least, it will be easier to link this than try to answer each question over and over again:)
 

#11
Buying tips for Bill...

It can be difficult for a few reasons.

1) Usually, at least here, their tanks have nothing but gravel. Nowhere to hide. That makes them skittish and unhappy.

2) My LFS's do not feed them. Ever. So, this can make for some *incredibly* starved frogs. When I get mine they are SO underweight that they hurt to look at.

3)They're darn hard to catch in those big tanks and there are usually many of them so it's hard to get the one you want lol

Just the obvious: Don't buy them if they've got any visible signs of disease. Don't buy any that don't move when the LFS guy tries to net them. You want frogs that are healthy and active. I'd try and get the larger (fatter) ones because they're stronger and likely to be healthier. However, I always find ones that I feel extra bad for and end up getting them hehe.

Good luck with that!

And thanks for making this a sticky:)
 

Jaybug

Medium Fish
May 18, 2004
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Eugene, Oregon
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#14
TY Leopardess. My wife just bought some ADF's. 4 of them for our 20g planted community tank. I hope they like the planaria that has infested this tank. The other fish get fed often enough, that thye seem little concerned with the little worms crawling all over everything.
Funy how planaria know when it's suppertime. They cover the tank glass, then disappear a few minutes later.
I wanted to have an ecosystem, I seem to have one now.
 

Jun 8, 2004
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Mankato MN
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#15
ok i figure this is the best place for me to ask my questions on ADF. i would like to get like 2 of them in a 2.5 gallon maybe 3? as long as i do a 20-25% water change weekly the tank shouldnt get too bad right. also should i get an algae eater to help keep things cleaned up. also maybe little tanks like that i dont see heaters with so what kind of heater would be best to purchase for these guys. do you guys see a big price difference between your lfs and wal mart on these guys my lfs is like 6.99/ea and wal mart here has them for 2.84/ea. just a few questions i want to make sure im doing these things right for these guys also with water i should be able to fill the tank with water thats been stresscoated or treated and them put my ADF right in? thanks for any help loved the article it helped alot.
 

#16
Jaybug - While that is, in fact, a diverse ecosystem, I don't think you should be so happy about the planaria. They signify dirty water/fouled substrate from excess food. I suggest more water changes and heavy gravel vac-ing to get rid of them immediately.

Wanttogetfish- I assume you're familiar with cycling? The tank needs a filter. Something like a little whisper filter would work alright. They do need a heater, just like fish, unless you can keep the tank at a constant temp. year round. Visatherme makes 6" 25w heaters that I use on 2.5gs and they work fine.


How many water changes to do depends on how dirty the tank gets. Monitor the nitrate levels with your test kits and go from there. Do as many water changes as it takes to keep the nitrates under ~ 20ppm.

My walmart doesn't sell them. I would probably advise you to pay the extra cost and pick them up at the LFS, but its obviously your choice.

Whatever you do, the tank does need to be cycled - frogs do NOT handle cycling well whatsoever. So, no, you cannot just put the water in and then the frog.

Yes, they also need their water to be treated (aka dechlorinated).

I'd only put 2 in there - and at that, I really suggest that you get a 5g for them. They'd be much more active and more fun to watch. Also, as mentioned in the Article (which I assume you read?) having frogs can make for a messy tank at first, before you get how to feed them w/o leaving excess food. Larger tanks would compensate for this better. A 5g glass tank at walmart is about 5-7$ bucks. The 2.5g tanks that I bought (just the tank) were 14$.

Hope that helped
 

Jun 8, 2004
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Mankato MN
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#17
thats great thatnks leopardess, you answered all my questions nd i will consider getting a 5g. i didnt relize you needed to cycle there tanks too everything ive read on them so far(maybe thats the problem) doesnt say anything about cycling first. if were to cycle a 29g tank first and after i have that going for a few months could i just take some water from there and add it to the 5g tank and wouldnt that be an instant cycle say i took my 29g and did a 25% water change and used that 25% water to fill my 5g? just some ideas im not too fimilar with all this stuff so thats why im taking my time.
 

#18
That's okay:) Part of why I wrote this FAQ is because there is a lack of info out there on these creatures:)

Unfortunately, no, you cannot just take out the cycled water from a tank and use it to cycle a new tank. The reason is because all of the good bacteria that are a result of cycling are not free floating. They attach onto surfaces, namely the filter.

You can, however, get the little filter that you'll use on the 5g or whatnot, and run it on the 29g tank while you cycle that one. Then, when you're ready to get the frogs, you can transfer the little filter right to the new tank:) Then you'll have a completely cycled tank:)
 

Odiee_Garf

Medium Fish
Mar 14, 2004
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Alberta,Canada
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#19
ADF's

Thank you so much.. I was going to come in and ask about these little guys.. Mine is shedding I guess .. so the article says... He is full of white fluff.. lol.. and well.. he is swimming like you wouldn't believe.. but... I just thought that it could have been a sickness in him..

Thanks again..

Odiee_Garf