Iggy’s Tank Cycle Recipe

Dec 3, 2009
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#61
I'm a beginner at this. When you do the large water changes (like you said you do 25% volume weekly) is there anything you have to do to the new water to prep it for the tank? Or do you just put in regular tap water out of the sink?

Also, I have talked to a few people who have had tanks before (unsuccessfully) and they were saying they changed out more like 75% of the water weekly. Is that a bad thing to do?
 

brian1973

Superstar Fish
Jan 20, 2008
2,001
3
38
Corpus Christi, Texas
#62
once your cycle is over you will do a large water change, as for how much to change and how often after your tank is cycled and fully setup you should change around 10% to 20%, but as you gain experience you will figure out how much to change to suit your tank and fish best, I commonly do 30% to 50% every week or 2. You need to add a good dechlorinator before or during the water change. I would recommend Prime as your water conditioner and it is available at most LFS and petsmart. I personally add mine directly to the tank as I fill.
 

brian1973

Superstar Fish
Jan 20, 2008
2,001
3
38
Corpus Christi, Texas
#64
LFS = local fish store

Yea you want to keep the nitrates as low as possible definately under 40ppm, once you gain experience with your tank you will know if you need to change it every week, twice a week or every other week.
 

JRB__

Large Fish
Oct 24, 2009
285
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Australia
#65
I did not do this :( i am totally upset that my petshop guy didnt tell anything. he simply gave me 33 gallon tank, told me not to fill up completely, add sand ( i washed it first then added it without him telling it was good idea) then told me to add some water from bottle ( i think its declorinator + ammonia ) and then told me to put fist after 1 day. i did , my 1 + yr old fish are looking good after almost 3 days, but now i discover this and i am not feeling good.

will i loose my fish? should i take them out and put them in old small tank for another 2-3 weeks and do this process mentioned here?
please please help me fast.
Relax, the 'fish in' cycle method is very common and can work without losing all of your fish. It's not the best method (as far as cruelty to fish goes) but it will work and as I said it is the most common method. IMPORTANT - go and buy yourself test kits, you need to (at a minimum) test ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH. This is very important and shouldn't be overlooked. A master test kit will include all of these and may be a more affordable option.
Here's a rough guide of what you should do and what to expect:

Day 1
The newly-added fish have not yet produced any measurable amount of ammonia. All readings should be near zero.
*Note – If you’re setting up the tank ahead of adding fish, the Cycle will not begin until a source of ammonia is added. i.e. Your new fish.

Day 3
Ammonia levels will begin to rapidly rise to near-dangerous; break-in fish may show some signs of discomfort and stress such as rapid breathing, poor feeding and darting about. First stage bacteria are beginning to become established, but their numbers are low at this point.

Day 5
Ammonia levels reach their peak and begin to decline as first stage bacteria start to convert it into nitrite. Nitrite levels begin to rise. *Note - Weaker fish may succumb to ammonia poisoning; a partial water change will dilute ammonia and reduce stress for a brief period. No more than 20% (more than this is likely to prolong the cycle process)

Day 8
First stage bacteria are well established and are processing ammonia as fast as the fish are producing it. Ammonia levels return to zero and nitrites climb rapidly. Fish may perk up due to temporary reprieve from stressful conditions.

Day 14
Nitrite levels reach their peak. Fish may again show some signs of distress. Small water changes (up to 20%) can help protect break-in fish and reduce stress without significantly prolonging cycling time.

Day 27
Nitrite levels continue to be elevated (can last for several weeks) as the second stage bacteria begin turning nitrite into nitrate.

Day 29
Second stage bacteria multiply rapidly and begin to catch up with built up nitrite. Nitrite levels drop rapidly and nitrate level becomes detectable.

Day 30
Both first and second stage bacteria are now well established and can keep up with the ammonia output of the fish, turning it first into nitrite and then immediately into nitrate. Do a 50%+ water change and a thorough gravel vaccum. Tank is now "cycled" and ready for additional fish. Add no more than 2-3 at a time, also allowing time after each new addition for the bacterial colonies to cope with the increased bio-load.

Hope this has been of some help. Good luck!
 

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#66
Jest a quick question it is day 8 in my fish less cycle(55 GA tank) and my ammonia levels have not dropped yet during a 24 hour span. I was wondering do it take longer for bigger tanks to start to drop in ammonia before the nitrite part of the cycle starts ??? or do I have a problem ??
 

FroggyFox

Forum Manager
Moderator
May 16, 2003
8,589
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Colorado
#67
what level is the ammonia at in the tank? If it is too high (like if you were adding it every day) then it can inhibit the process greatly. If you haven't seeded the tank though, I don't know that 8 days is cause for alarm. As long as your ammonia is at a measurable level in the tank, just keep an eye on it. Make sure you have some water movement (filter on, oxygen going into water, more surface agitation the better) and the temperature isn't extremely high or too low...you want it around 80.
 

#68
It is at 5-6 ppm. I never added any ammonia today. I could turn down the temp a bit its at 85. Yes I seeded the tank with gravel from my all ready established tank also I have added a extra hob filter that is established. I have 2 power heads going in the tank and some air stones. So im going to stop adding ammonia and see if it starts to drop. I did not think anything would live in a tank with such high ammo levels but I noticed last night there are 2 very small snails on the glass. They must have come from the plants that I pout in the tank.
 

#69
So if there is to much ammonia that would mess up the cycle right! Because I have not added ammonia now in like 4 days and it is reading 8 on my test. I thought it was at 6 but I got a new api test kit and it showing 8 . Should I do a water change to bring down the ammonia?. Do it matter what my ph is ? Cause my ph is at 6 is that good or bad ? This is day 12 since I have started trying this cycle recipe and befor I started this the tank was set up and running for 2 weeks.
 

aakaakaak

Superstar Fish
Sep 9, 2010
1,324
0
0
Chesapeake, Virginia
#70
If you had already added beneficial bacteria from a HOB filter and gravel from an already established tank you didn't need to do the ammonia dump cycle. It would have been cycled without it. You don't need to add any more ammonia. Keep doing 50% water changes until your ammonia/nitrItes are at 0 and you see some nitrAtes.

If your PH is at 6 naturally you should be looking to get fish that like that kind of environment. South American cichlids are good. Several kinds of tetras like that kind of water too.
 

#71
I never added the established hob filter and gravel till day 3 of the ammonia dump cycle. Like I mentioned before I had my tank running 2weeks before the start of the ammo dump cycle and I had a new filter running. I was only noticing 1 ppm of ammo the first week and second week and no reading of nitrites/nitrates so then I read the sticky on here for beginners and got this recipe and started. I had thought to my self if I added a established filter then it might speed stuff up but it never and here I am with this problem and its starting week 4 and im no where near cycled. So aakaakaak u mentioned that I did not need to do this type of cycle but I am not getting any reading on my test for nitrites either. So if I do 50% changes and ammo and nitrites go to 0 and nitrates start to rise I should be cycled? When I am cycled should I do a 100% water change like others recommend ????