Just for My Fishtank.net
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I thought it was a bi-color blenny but they said it was Midas, so I did some research and found this. "The genus Ecsenius deserves special attention in the family Blenniidae; with forty seven species these are delightful, small (to four inches) fishes that do superbly well in peaceful fish, invertebrate and reef systems.
The quintessential member of the genus is the Midas Blenny Ecsenius midas, with changeable yellow, purple, brown and pink & blue. The Midas is a good assay organism as they exhibit rapid and extreme color changes when stressed. Considered to be a mimic of the Coralfish Pseudanthias squamipinnis among other Basslets over it's wide range, this little beauty is very un-blenny-like in its disposition to stay out from cover hiding amongst its adopted "school". " @ EcseniusBlennies .
So maybe it was stressed????
The quintessential member of the genus is the Midas Blenny Ecsenius midas, with changeable yellow, purple, brown and pink & blue. The Midas is a good assay organism as they exhibit rapid and extreme color changes when stressed. Considered to be a mimic of the Coralfish Pseudanthias squamipinnis among other Basslets over it's wide range, this little beauty is very un-blenny-like in its disposition to stay out from cover hiding amongst its adopted "school". " @ EcseniusBlennies .
So maybe it was stressed????
Did my first water change Saturday, went pretty smooth, forgot to turn the Top Off system off, so the high water alarm went off 
at least I know it works now. Went to the LFS today to pick up a few more snails for the tank the shipment won't be here till tommrow, I did get a Conch for the tank though, bought one last week but he was dead, so this was a replacement. What do you all think about UV Sterilizers, the LFS owner suggested that I get one, he uselly dosn't steer me wrong, but they cost a pretty good bit, not forking out those $$$ without checking here first. My first thought was the main reason for them is to help with Ick. My fish list will be 3 Anthias, Midas Blenny, 1 yellow tang, 2 chromis and the rest Wrasses. So I was thinking my main Ick problem would be the Tang, would that be worth a $200 sterilizer? Did some water test today, not to bad I think:
Alk 308
Cal 465
Mag 1125
Nitrate 1
Phosphate 0.01
Ammonia 0
at least I know it works now. Went to the LFS today to pick up a few more snails for the tank the shipment won't be here till tommrow, I did get a Conch for the tank though, bought one last week but he was dead, so this was a replacement. What do you all think about UV Sterilizers, the LFS owner suggested that I get one, he uselly dosn't steer me wrong, but they cost a pretty good bit, not forking out those $$$ without checking here first. My first thought was the main reason for them is to help with Ick. My fish list will be 3 Anthias, Midas Blenny, 1 yellow tang, 2 chromis and the rest Wrasses. So I was thinking my main Ick problem would be the Tang, would that be worth a $200 sterilizer? Did some water test today, not to bad I think:Alk 308
Cal 465
Mag 1125
Nitrate 1
Phosphate 0.01
Ammonia 0
I'm not a big fan of UV sterilizers on a main tank. I have one, and I've used it on the quarantine tank. But, it can cause some problems with breaking down certain minerals. I don't think I'd ever use one on a saltwater display tank. I think few people use them these days -- they're sort of old-fashioned for most purposes.
If you're quarantining all your fish, you shouldn't really have problems with ich anyway.
If you're quarantining all your fish, you shouldn't really have problems with ich anyway.
Keep an eye on your Alk. 308PPM is high, most SW tanks do not need to be over 225PPM. Other then that its looking real good!!!!! Great job Sir!
I agree with Lotus on the UV deal. Even if you got one, one for $200 is no where near strong enough to do anything for your size tank.
Did you algae start to clear up yet? I am having a break out in my 10g Nano but its the green stuff.
I agree with Lotus on the UV deal. Even if you got one, one for $200 is no where near strong enough to do anything for your size tank.
Did you algae start to clear up yet? I am having a break out in my 10g Nano but its the green stuff.
have a greaaat update this morning. No one has the Carberri Anthias and I have been looking everyday for like three weeks. I go into LiveAquaria last nite to set up a email alert just in case, I get the email alert this morning got 3 ordered with priority over night, so hopefully I will get a tracking number today saying they will be delivered tomorrow morning. They will be the first fish into the new quarantine tank.
That is great news. Those are splendid fish, I really like the Flathead Sunburst as well.
Yesterday during my lunch hour I was looking at a pair of Huchtii Anthias fish at the local Mom&Pop behind my Transmission shop. The pics I have seen of this fish do not do it justice at all. They are very similar to the Carberri but have light green bodies.
Post some pics when you get them please!!!
Yesterday during my lunch hour I was looking at a pair of Huchtii Anthias fish at the local Mom&Pop behind my Transmission shop. The pics I have seen of this fish do not do it justice at all. They are very similar to the Carberri but have light green bodies.
Post some pics when you get them please!!!
I am new to this water checking test kits I didn't do many in the old 125g tank, my Nitrates always stayed high and nothing I did seemed to ever make them come down, so at one point, I just stopped checking. I went to the LFS yesterday with my water and all the test kits, did the water test and had the owner double check that I was reading the test results right. This is what he told me to do, let me know what you think, good or bad. He told me to stop dosing the calcium until it came down to 425, he said something like, doing this would help get the calcium back in line with the Alk number.
I didn't do many in the old 125g tank, my Nitrates always stayed high and nothing I did seemed to ever make them come down, so at one point, I just stopped checking. I went to the LFS yesterday with my water and all the test kits, did the water test and had the owner double check that I was reading the test results right. This is what he told me to do, let me know what you think, good or bad. He told me to stop dosing the calcium until it came down to 425, he said something like, doing this would help get the calcium back in line with the Alk number.
My personal feeling is that my hard corals grow better if I have Ca between 450 and 480-ish, I try not to get it over or under these two figures. If I do I try not to adjust more then 20 units per day. All seems good at even 400 but I didn't see as much growth so its really a preference and a visual thing that you will have to gauge for yourself as all tanks are a bit different. Stopping Ca is not going to really bring down the Alk any faster. You just need to stop doing the Alk until its in the Ok range and when you start to re-dose Alk you need to dose less if this is what got it high.
You should dose calcium chloride (buy at local pool supply) to raise the Ca, you should dose sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to raise the Alk, and you can dose calcium hydroxide (mrs wages) to raise both the Ca. and Alk. at one time. Also note that usually when dosing the calcium hydroxide that the Alk goes up faster then the Ca. So this is why you need to have calcium chloride on hand as well.
Please let me know if you have any more dosing questions. I am fairly knowledgeable about this, no expert but I manage my own tanks without to any problems. The best learning curve is to test a lot and see what amount of dosing causes how much of a change when you test. I have a calendar that I record all my test result on and also put down what dosages I was using and if I made dosing changes. I really enjoy this part of SW keeping. I like the challenge of maintaining a perfect water chemistry.
You should dose calcium chloride (buy at local pool supply) to raise the Ca, you should dose sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to raise the Alk, and you can dose calcium hydroxide (mrs wages) to raise both the Ca. and Alk. at one time. Also note that usually when dosing the calcium hydroxide that the Alk goes up faster then the Ca. So this is why you need to have calcium chloride on hand as well.
Please let me know if you have any more dosing questions. I am fairly knowledgeable about this, no expert but I manage my own tanks without to any problems. The best learning curve is to test a lot and see what amount of dosing causes how much of a change when you test. I have a calendar that I record all my test result on and also put down what dosages I was using and if I made dosing changes. I really enjoy this part of SW keeping. I like the challenge of maintaining a perfect water chemistry.
I was there to. I just tested like crazy until I got a good grip on it. I found it very helpful to record my testes and dosing amounts before and after adjusted said supplement. This let me know how much or less of whatever did to the tank parameters. It was also helpful when I figured out that a perfectly saturated Kalk mix (mrs wages, calcium hydroxide) had 800PPM of Cal. Perfectly saturated (example is per gal) is with 2 tsp of calcium hydroxide mixed into 100ml of vinegar and shaken until mixed, it will get a little warm. Then dump this into a gallon of ro/di. This method of using vinegar will also make the Cal. more potent as well. Another bonus of the vinegar is there will be an organic carbon left over for the corals to consume. I mix up a few gallons at a time. Also note to add the powder to the vinegar!!
I always had a hard time with Alk going high before I started using the vinegar. Now its pretty even thanks to the vinegar trick.
You will get it, if you need any help let me know.
I always had a hard time with Alk going high before I started using the vinegar. Now its pretty even thanks to the vinegar trick.
You will get it, if you need any help let me know.
Are you still cycling? If so, I assume you have no corals in the tank. If that's the case, your water chemistry is likely bouncing all over the place anyway. I'd wait until later in the cycle (when you're closer to adding fish and corals) to start really testing and dosing. Also, if you're having problems with alk and calcium, check your magnesium. It's crucial in keeping alk and calcium in balance.
Well, have a great update and a not so great update. The fish came in, and are in good shape I didn't put them into the quarantine tank though, they went into the display tank, I know I shouldn't have done that, but I did. One stayed out all day swimming with the 2 G. Chromis and the Midas Blenny, the other two stayed hidden in the rocks all day, I didn't see any of the new fish eat though, they sure are a nice looking fish. I have been reporting everything I have done in the tank build, so I might as well report the bad also. Picked up a small sps frag from the store, I am planning to buy all my fish, slowly, before I buy corals for the tank, but I had to see what would happen with a coral in the tank. I would say that 80% of the coral died within 24 hours of it going into the tank. I figured that would happen, but was hoping that it didn't. I think the lights were to bright for it, the LFS owner isn't so sure, what ever the reason, I was a bit disappointed. As soon as all 3 fish are out swimming together, I will get a pic to post.