Mega Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover - DIY!
- Thread starter SantaMonica
- Start date
If you mean the algae on the screen growing up into the pipe, what happens is that if it is growing heavily and not cleaned, some areas of the waterfall pipe will start flowing more sideways to get around the algae. But I don't think it could ever "clog" because that would stop the flow that it needs to grow in the first place. Regardless, weekly cleaning eliminates this, and you have to clean weekly to kill pods and to remove slime from blocking the turf underneath.
Part 1 of 2:
It's Time For The Santa Monica 120 Acrylic!
Ok it's time to move my screen from the ugly bucket by the sink (with hoses, wires, timers, etc) to under the tank where it can sit on the sump. The idea for this design came from all the readers who tried to install their screens over their sumps. Low profile is important for me, as it is to anyone without a fish room, so I picked 6" as the max height. That would give me room to lift out the screen and pull it out of the stand, with room to spare. And at 6" height, the pvc pipe will take up 1", leaving 5" for the screen. So the screen will be 5 X 24 = 120 sq in. This is good for a decently-stocked 90 like mine, or a lightly stocked 200 with no real nutrient problems. Here is the initial layout that I gave to the acrylic shop:
Wide screens like this are more efficient and powerful (with the same light) than tall narrow screens, but require more flow. My screen will need 24" X 35(gph/in) = 840 gph. However the same 120 sq in screen placed vertically would only need 5" X 35(gph/in) = 175 gph. The vertical placement has a disadvantage in that the water at the top gets filtered by the top of the screen, but then has to travel over the lower parts of the screen. Since it's already been filtered at the top, not much happens on the bottom part of the screen. This problem is eliminated with a horizontal screen since all the water that passes over the 5 inches of screen needs filtering.
Another good use for a low-profile screen like this would be for on-top of tank, when you want the pods to drain directly down into the display. Or, if you don't have a sump, the on-top placement would work great if you put the pump in the display.
The acrylic box came back from the acrylic shop, finished beautifully. They still have the plans, so if anyone wants the same box, call Hastings Plastics at 310-829-3449 and say you want the "aquarium algae filter screen box". The only change would be the "U" cutouts for the pipe: Tell them to make them a little larger round, and a little deeper, since the pipe was hard to push into them (and it stuck out a bit which made the lid not close all the way. ). I did a little grinding, and now it's perfect. The cost was about $100, without shipping. Here's how is arrived:
Unwrapped. Notice the bottom and ends are mirrored acrylic, with the mirror facing inwards:
The lid fits mirror-side down:
The pipe fits snug so that little light will escape. I had to grind the "U" cutouts a little bigger and deeper so the pipe would not block the lid:
The lid fit perfectly after the pipe cutouts were enlarged:
Here are the lights. They come with a combo of 10K and actinic:
24 inch Current USA Nova Extreme 2x24 watt T5 HO 10K/460nm, T5/T12 Fixtures > Fully Assembled Fixtures > Lighting > Aquarium
I removed the bulbs, and got 6500K and 3000K from here:
GE T5 High Output Fluorescent Grow Lamps - Plantlighting Hydroponics & Grow Lights
I'm going to set it up with 6500K on one side and 3000K on the other. Nobody recommednds 10K for macros, except for one person: The guy at Inland Aquatics that has been growing turf screens for 10 years. So, I'll try 10K soon, but not to start. Maybe you can start with 10K on yours and let us know how it works
It's Time For The Santa Monica 120 Acrylic!
Ok it's time to move my screen from the ugly bucket by the sink (with hoses, wires, timers, etc) to under the tank where it can sit on the sump. The idea for this design came from all the readers who tried to install their screens over their sumps. Low profile is important for me, as it is to anyone without a fish room, so I picked 6" as the max height. That would give me room to lift out the screen and pull it out of the stand, with room to spare. And at 6" height, the pvc pipe will take up 1", leaving 5" for the screen. So the screen will be 5 X 24 = 120 sq in. This is good for a decently-stocked 90 like mine, or a lightly stocked 200 with no real nutrient problems. Here is the initial layout that I gave to the acrylic shop:
Wide screens like this are more efficient and powerful (with the same light) than tall narrow screens, but require more flow. My screen will need 24" X 35(gph/in) = 840 gph. However the same 120 sq in screen placed vertically would only need 5" X 35(gph/in) = 175 gph. The vertical placement has a disadvantage in that the water at the top gets filtered by the top of the screen, but then has to travel over the lower parts of the screen. Since it's already been filtered at the top, not much happens on the bottom part of the screen. This problem is eliminated with a horizontal screen since all the water that passes over the 5 inches of screen needs filtering.
Another good use for a low-profile screen like this would be for on-top of tank, when you want the pods to drain directly down into the display. Or, if you don't have a sump, the on-top placement would work great if you put the pump in the display.
The acrylic box came back from the acrylic shop, finished beautifully. They still have the plans, so if anyone wants the same box, call Hastings Plastics at 310-829-3449 and say you want the "aquarium algae filter screen box". The only change would be the "U" cutouts for the pipe: Tell them to make them a little larger round, and a little deeper, since the pipe was hard to push into them (and it stuck out a bit which made the lid not close all the way. ). I did a little grinding, and now it's perfect. The cost was about $100, without shipping. Here's how is arrived:
Unwrapped. Notice the bottom and ends are mirrored acrylic, with the mirror facing inwards:
The lid fits mirror-side down:
The pipe fits snug so that little light will escape. I had to grind the "U" cutouts a little bigger and deeper so the pipe would not block the lid:
The lid fit perfectly after the pipe cutouts were enlarged:
Here are the lights. They come with a combo of 10K and actinic:
24 inch Current USA Nova Extreme 2x24 watt T5 HO 10K/460nm, T5/T12 Fixtures > Fully Assembled Fixtures > Lighting > Aquarium
I removed the bulbs, and got 6500K and 3000K from here:
GE T5 High Output Fluorescent Grow Lamps - Plantlighting Hydroponics & Grow Lights
I'm going to set it up with 6500K on one side and 3000K on the other. Nobody recommednds 10K for macros, except for one person: The guy at Inland Aquatics that has been growing turf screens for 10 years. So, I'll try 10K soon, but not to start. Maybe you can start with 10K on yours and let us know how it works
Part 2 of 2:
Then I placed the lights on the acrylic and marked off where the the bulbs will be shining through:
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicMarkLightPlacement.jpg
Some method has to be used to mount the lights to the sides. I'm using acrylic blocks and acrylic glue:
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicMounts.jpg
The light-mounting is a bit tricky, because the lights need to be removeable, yet be pressed up against the acrylic to minimize light leakage (which would be important for an above-the-tank placement in plain view). The lights are then placed in the mounts:
The overall size ended up being 6.5" high X 6" deep X 24" long:
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDepth.jpg
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicHeight.jpg
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicLength.jpg
Here's a size comparison; the inside of the stand was once filled with filtration devices, and now it's just water:
Taped and ready for spray painting:
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicTaped.jpg
First coat was a metallic silver, so that the inside would reflect more:
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicMetalic.jpg
After painting with black primer, and putting lights on:
End view:
Side view:
Lid off, ready to use:
The long, low-profile pipe and screen:
Lights on:
Setting on sump:
Running, with front light removed to see flow:
So, I rubbed algae from my original bucket into the new screen, then installed the screen and turned it on. I'm starting with the flow and lights on 24 hours, in order to speed up the growth. I'll decide later if I'm going to pulse the flow, and I'll wait for the algae to grow a bit before putting the lights on a timer. Also, there is no fan, because I wanted to make it as simple as possible for folks who wanted to try it themselves. I may try a fan later, but for now let's see how it does without one. Also also, I'm leaving my original bucket running, for safety, but of course this will slow down growth on the new screen.
Then I placed the lights on the acrylic and marked off where the the bulbs will be shining through:
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicMarkLightPlacement.jpg
Some method has to be used to mount the lights to the sides. I'm using acrylic blocks and acrylic glue:
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicMounts.jpg
The light-mounting is a bit tricky, because the lights need to be removeable, yet be pressed up against the acrylic to minimize light leakage (which would be important for an above-the-tank placement in plain view). The lights are then placed in the mounts:
The overall size ended up being 6.5" high X 6" deep X 24" long:
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDepth.jpg
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicHeight.jpg
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicLength.jpg
Here's a size comparison; the inside of the stand was once filled with filtration devices, and now it's just water:
Taped and ready for spray painting:
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicTaped.jpg
First coat was a metallic silver, so that the inside would reflect more:
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicMetalic.jpg
After painting with black primer, and putting lights on:
End view:
Side view:
Lid off, ready to use:
The long, low-profile pipe and screen:
Lights on:
Setting on sump:
Running, with front light removed to see flow:
So, I rubbed algae from my original bucket into the new screen, then installed the screen and turned it on. I'm starting with the flow and lights on 24 hours, in order to speed up the growth. I'll decide later if I'm going to pulse the flow, and I'll wait for the algae to grow a bit before putting the lights on a timer. Also, there is no fan, because I wanted to make it as simple as possible for folks who wanted to try it themselves. I may try a fan later, but for now let's see how it does without one. Also also, I'm leaving my original bucket running, for safety, but of course this will slow down growth on the new screen.
^^^^^wow.... now thats a giant leap from a 5 gal bucket....lol..... looks amazing
using that design...... could i use it like this......
from tank to overflow into sump... after bioballs, a pump pumps it into the nitrate remover, and back into the sump... then back into the tank......
here is a quick diagram
using that design...... could i use it like this......
from tank to overflow into sump... after bioballs, a pump pumps it into the nitrate remover, and back into the sump... then back into the tank......
here is a quick diagram
Results of the day:
jski711 on the RF site says: "Well i ditched my euro reef skimmer and have not noticed any side effects from doing so. i'm still doing water changes on a regular basis but i have increased feedings tremendously and have no adverse side effects from doing so."
keithqueef on RC says: "Update. Well i received my screen from inland (12x12) last friday. and since putting it into my system my trates have gone from red to orange to now dark yellow not quite orange, i lost my color card so i dunno numbers. the screen is dense with it."
jski711 on the RF site says: "Well i ditched my euro reef skimmer and have not noticed any side effects from doing so. i'm still doing water changes on a regular basis but i have increased feedings tremendously and have no adverse side effects from doing so."
keithqueef on RC says: "Update. Well i received my screen from inland (12x12) last friday. and since putting it into my system my trates have gone from red to orange to now dark yellow not quite orange, i lost my color card so i dunno numbers. the screen is dense with it."
or would it be better to add a small 5 or 10 gallon tank next to it and have it return into the new tank and pump into the main tank
the only reason i wonder is becuase if it pumps into the same chamber as where the return pump is, it might miss some of the water, and have nitrates pump right back into the tank
the only reason i wonder is becuase if it pumps into the same chamber as where the return pump is, it might miss some of the water, and have nitrates pump right back into the tank
Ok here is a four-part video I made of the last scraping of the screen of my original bucket before I give it to the LFS to replace the tank-divider screen he's been testing. This video is low-light (with a 5 year old 2-meg camera), so you can't see the algae on the screen, but the purpose is to see the technique of screen cleaning/scraping:
Hi-res:
Part 1: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Scraping1.mpg
Part 2: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Scraping2.mpg
Part 2: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Scraping3.mpg
Part 3: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Scraping4.mpg
YouTube:
YouTube - Algae Scrubber: Cleaning/Scraping, part 1
YouTube - Algae Scrubber: Cleaning/Scraping, part 2
YouTube - Algae Scrubber: Cleaning/Scraping, part 3
YouTube - Algae Scrubber: Cleaning/Scraping, part 4
Hi-res:
Part 1: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Scraping1.mpg
Part 2: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Scraping2.mpg
Part 2: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Scraping3.mpg
Part 3: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Scraping4.mpg
YouTube:
YouTube - Algae Scrubber: Cleaning/Scraping, part 1
YouTube - Algae Scrubber: Cleaning/Scraping, part 2
YouTube - Algae Scrubber: Cleaning/Scraping, part 3
YouTube - Algae Scrubber: Cleaning/Scraping, part 4
The Power Of Light, another example:
Reader "varga" on the RS site just did a cleaning and sent in these pics; here is before the cleaning... it looks like the screen has an even coverage all across it:
But here is after:
Notice that the center area has a tougher, stiffer algae that holds on stronger because it is made up of less water and more fibers (i.e., more N and P, less H20). Now why do you think that the stronger algae formed in the middle of the screen? Here's why:
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Yes, because of the lights. The screen may look evenly covered in light when you look at it, but your eyes can't tell the high power areas from the low power areas. Also, when you double the distance of the light, you would think the power of the light would be reduced to one-half; but it's actually reduced to ONE FOURTH of what it was. So when optimizing your design, you want the lights as close to the screen as possilbe, all the way across the screen.
Reader "varga" on the RS site just did a cleaning and sent in these pics; here is before the cleaning... it looks like the screen has an even coverage all across it:
But here is after:
Notice that the center area has a tougher, stiffer algae that holds on stronger because it is made up of less water and more fibers (i.e., more N and P, less H20). Now why do you think that the stronger algae formed in the middle of the screen? Here's why:
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Yes, because of the lights. The screen may look evenly covered in light when you look at it, but your eyes can't tell the high power areas from the low power areas. Also, when you double the distance of the light, you would think the power of the light would be reduced to one-half; but it's actually reduced to ONE FOURTH of what it was. So when optimizing your design, you want the lights as close to the screen as possilbe, all the way across the screen.
Many folks asked for pics of the jski711 no-skimmer tank whose test results I already posted, so here they are along with an update he posted:
"Well first i'll start by giving you a little background of my tank. its been up for 2 years now and am running t5 lighting. in the past i have had algae issues and phosphates tested above .1 from overfeeding. (i'm trying to fatten up my clowns and hopefully get them spawning). i've also got a 15g tank plumbed into my system that has a pair of mandarins in it which i am also trying to get spawning. i had a sick mandarin and dosed my tank with Maracyn to try and save him. after dosing this for a week i was unable to turn my skimmer on because it would just overflow from the medicine. after doing numerous water changes and about a month later i still was unable to turn it back on, thats when i saw [the scrubber] thread. I also had to turn off my calcium reactor because the co2 was dropping my ph too low; the bubbles from the skimmer were really helping me keep my ph up but with my skimmer not running, it had to be turned off. thats when i decided to give [the scrubber] a try. i purchased a pre grown screen from inland and off i went. since adding the "scrubber" i have noticed a major increase in ph which allowed me to turn my calcium reactor back on and get things stable again. the reactor has only been back on for about 2 weeks now and im "re dialing" it in. my ph fluctuates between 7.8 at night and 8.0 during the day. I have over 30 different types of sps in my tank, just did a quick count, and i have noticed no ill side effects at all. i have also been overfeeding a ton, especially to my mandarins! i have also noticed that the green film of algae i would get on the glass every few days has gone. I don't even remember the last time i scraped it, although in the pics you will see it needs to be done soon cause i have a ton of coraline algae on it. So IMO this "scrubber" has done wonders for me. I have been skimmerless for over 3 months now and still do my normal water changes, sometimes i do go 2 weeks but normally every weekend i do one. the turf that was on the screen from inland is still there but it doesnt seem to be spreading but not receding either. below are some pictures from today, they were just quick shots so sorry if they are blurry but you will see the colors i've got are great and like i said earlier i have had NO ill side effects at all."
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.
.
"Well first i'll start by giving you a little background of my tank. its been up for 2 years now and am running t5 lighting. in the past i have had algae issues and phosphates tested above .1 from overfeeding. (i'm trying to fatten up my clowns and hopefully get them spawning). i've also got a 15g tank plumbed into my system that has a pair of mandarins in it which i am also trying to get spawning. i had a sick mandarin and dosed my tank with Maracyn to try and save him. after dosing this for a week i was unable to turn my skimmer on because it would just overflow from the medicine. after doing numerous water changes and about a month later i still was unable to turn it back on, thats when i saw [the scrubber] thread. I also had to turn off my calcium reactor because the co2 was dropping my ph too low; the bubbles from the skimmer were really helping me keep my ph up but with my skimmer not running, it had to be turned off. thats when i decided to give [the scrubber] a try. i purchased a pre grown screen from inland and off i went. since adding the "scrubber" i have noticed a major increase in ph which allowed me to turn my calcium reactor back on and get things stable again. the reactor has only been back on for about 2 weeks now and im "re dialing" it in. my ph fluctuates between 7.8 at night and 8.0 during the day. I have over 30 different types of sps in my tank, just did a quick count, and i have noticed no ill side effects at all. i have also been overfeeding a ton, especially to my mandarins! i have also noticed that the green film of algae i would get on the glass every few days has gone. I don't even remember the last time i scraped it, although in the pics you will see it needs to be done soon cause i have a ton of coraline algae on it. So IMO this "scrubber" has done wonders for me. I have been skimmerless for over 3 months now and still do my normal water changes, sometimes i do go 2 weeks but normally every weekend i do one. the turf that was on the screen from inland is still there but it doesnt seem to be spreading but not receding either. below are some pictures from today, they were just quick shots so sorry if they are blurry but you will see the colors i've got are great and like i said earlier i have had NO ill side effects at all."
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Part 1 of 2:
Growth Sequence of New Acrylic Screen
The new acrylic scrubber is up and kicking. These pics were taken while the original bucket was still operating, so the growth is slower than it would have been otherwise. I'm running 3000K on one side, and 6500K on the other, as a test. It probably won't make much difference until the holes in the screen are sealed off, but here are the daily pics. The T5 light on the front has been removed so you can see the screen:
Day 1
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay01.jpg
Day 2
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay02small.jpg
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay02.jpg
Day 3
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay03.jpg
Day 4
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay04.jpg
Day 5
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay05.jpg
Day 6
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay06.jpg
Day 7
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay07.jpg
Day 8
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay08.jpg
Day 9
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay09.jpg
Day 10
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay10.jpg
Day 11 (a huge growth increase):
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay11.jpg
Growth Sequence of New Acrylic Screen
The new acrylic scrubber is up and kicking. These pics were taken while the original bucket was still operating, so the growth is slower than it would have been otherwise. I'm running 3000K on one side, and 6500K on the other, as a test. It probably won't make much difference until the holes in the screen are sealed off, but here are the daily pics. The T5 light on the front has been removed so you can see the screen:
Day 1
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay01.jpg
Day 2
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay02small.jpg
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay02.jpg
Day 3
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay03.jpg
Day 4
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay04.jpg
Day 5
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay05.jpg
Day 6
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay06.jpg
Day 7
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay07.jpg
Day 8
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay08.jpg
Day 9
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay09.jpg
Day 10
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay10.jpg
Day 11 (a huge growth increase):
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay11.jpg
Part 2 of 2:
Notice that it takes several days before you can see any growth at all. And yes, I did seed the screen. Going back one day to Day 10, here are some closeups:
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicCloseup1Day10.jpg
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicCloseup2Day10small.jpg
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicCloseup2Day10.jpg
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicCloseup3Day10small.jpg
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicCloseup3Day10.jpg
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicCloseup4Day10.jpg
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicCloseup5Day10.jpg
And here is a closeup from Day 11:
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay11closeup.jpg
And what it looks like out of the stand. Note the algae coming out of drain; it was almost 2 feet long before I pulled it out for this pic:
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay11heldup.jpg
Here's the growth on the 3000K side:
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay11out3000K.jpg
And the 6500K side:
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay11out6500K.jpg
Instead of following the rule of cleaning only one side at a time, I had to do both in order to measure the algae of the 3000K side versus the 6500K side. Here is what was pulled off, like pulling a rope:
Here are the algae amounts removed, after a cleaning:
And here's the screen after cleaning; this is why you don't clean both sides, becuase it leaves left nothing on the screen for filtering:
A few notes:
o The screen is only 1.5 inches from the acrylic wall, and thus some water does get on the wall. But this unit is currently not setup for airflow with a fan, and it has a lid, so the water never gets a chance to evaporate. As a result very little saltcreep forms. I think I wiped it twice during the 11 days; however it did not do anything, just redistributed the droplets. On day 11 there was a small amount of creep; when I pulled the screen out I just reached in an splashed some water on it and it came off.
o There was a great increase in algae between day 10 and 11. I've seen this many times: once the hair algae gets to a certain point, the next day it covers everything.
o When the screen get covered, algae start flowing down the scrubber and out the drain. Not a little, but a lot. It easily reached the botton of the sump 18" below. I just grabbed it and pulled it off. This might be a way to feed tangs, if the unit were placed on the hood of the tank.
Notice that it takes several days before you can see any growth at all. And yes, I did seed the screen. Going back one day to Day 10, here are some closeups:
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicCloseup1Day10.jpg
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicCloseup2Day10small.jpg
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicCloseup2Day10.jpg
http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicCloseup3Day10small.jpg
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicCloseup3Day10.jpg
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicCloseup4Day10.jpg
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicCloseup5Day10.jpg
And here is a closeup from Day 11:
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay11closeup.jpg
And what it looks like out of the stand. Note the algae coming out of drain; it was almost 2 feet long before I pulled it out for this pic:
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay11heldup.jpg
Here's the growth on the 3000K side:
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay11out3000K.jpg
And the 6500K side:
Hi-Res: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDay11out6500K.jpg
Instead of following the rule of cleaning only one side at a time, I had to do both in order to measure the algae of the 3000K side versus the 6500K side. Here is what was pulled off, like pulling a rope:
Here are the algae amounts removed, after a cleaning:
And here's the screen after cleaning; this is why you don't clean both sides, becuase it leaves left nothing on the screen for filtering:
A few notes:
o The screen is only 1.5 inches from the acrylic wall, and thus some water does get on the wall. But this unit is currently not setup for airflow with a fan, and it has a lid, so the water never gets a chance to evaporate. As a result very little saltcreep forms. I think I wiped it twice during the 11 days; however it did not do anything, just redistributed the droplets. On day 11 there was a small amount of creep; when I pulled the screen out I just reached in an splashed some water on it and it came off.
o There was a great increase in algae between day 10 and 11. I've seen this many times: once the hair algae gets to a certain point, the next day it covers everything.
o When the screen get covered, algae start flowing down the scrubber and out the drain. Not a little, but a lot. It easily reached the botton of the sump 18" below. I just grabbed it and pulled it off. This might be a way to feed tangs, if the unit were placed on the hood of the tank.
Reminder Of The Day: Flow...
The basic rule of thumb for flow for a standard pipe slot is 35 gph (US gallons per hour) (140 liters per hour) per inch (2.2 cm) of screen width. Thus a screen 2" wide would need 70 gph. This should cover the entire screen with a swift flow on both sides, and leave you with a little room for adjustment. The more flow, the better, but this amount has proven to work well. How tall the screen is does not change the gph, however; only the width does. Here is the chart:
Screen Width-----Gallons Per Hour (GPH)
2" 70
3" 105
4" 140
5" 175
6" 210
7" 245
8" 280
9" 315
10" 350
11" 385
12" 420
13" 455
14" 490
15" 525
16" 560
17" 595
18" 630
19" 665
20" 700
The basic rule of thumb for flow for a standard pipe slot is 35 gph (US gallons per hour) (140 liters per hour) per inch (2.2 cm) of screen width. Thus a screen 2" wide would need 70 gph. This should cover the entire screen with a swift flow on both sides, and leave you with a little room for adjustment. The more flow, the better, but this amount has proven to work well. How tall the screen is does not change the gph, however; only the width does. Here is the chart:
Screen Width-----Gallons Per Hour (GPH)
2" 70
3" 105
4" 140
5" 175
6" 210
7" 245
8" 280
9" 315
10" 350
11" 385
12" 420
13" 455
14" 490
15" 525
16" 560
17" 595
18" 630
19" 665
20" 700
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Well this one takes the cake. Not only is it the biggest, but it's also the first one to use halides for lighting. "Reefski" on the MD site has a 700g tank and 800g sump, and had the entire garage to use for fish stuff, so he spared nothing in building his scrubber:
By the way, if this weren't enough, his entire back yard is a koi pond
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Well this one takes the cake. Not only is it the biggest, but it's also the first one to use halides for lighting. "Reefski" on the MD site has a 700g tank and 800g sump, and had the entire garage to use for fish stuff, so he spared nothing in building his scrubber:
By the way, if this weren't enough, his entire back yard is a koi pond
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