Why are my platies/ mollies not eating? plus other questions.

D

Def1n1tely

New Fish
#1
Oct 15, 2010
9
0
0
#1
Whats up everyone,

I'm very new but I've been reading a lot of info these last couple of days. Heres the deal:

I got a new 10 gal. tank and have had 2 red wag platys (both female) and 2 dalmatian mollies (both males) for about 4 or 5 weeks. They seemed pretty ok with their overall demeanor, but lately these last couple of days, they've somewhat been lacklustered in their behavior. They're not eating and not as energetic as they used to be. I've been changing 15-20% of the water once a week and vacuum the gravel partially. I use a water conditioner and a beneficial bacteria conditioner. I have a heater, a filter, an air stone, a mini cave, and a fake plant.

I was wondering if it's because the 10 gal. tank is too small for them? Or because they don't have an opposite sex to keep them entertained? I want to eventually get a 29 gal tank and provide the platys and mollies with companions of their opposite sex. But I don't know if that might be too soon because the cycling period might not be over yet. I eventually want to get 1 more male and female platy and 3 female mollies. Overall making it to 1 male platy, 3 female platys, 2 male mollies and 3 fem mollies.

Or could the reason also be because I'm always peering in and looking at them and they're scared of seeing my face now, haha. I noticed the platys are more paranoid and the mollies are more chill and not as scared of me.

Also when I do the water changes I use a siphon vacuum to clean up some of the gravel, while the fish are still in the tank. They get crazy scared (especially the platys) and I was thinking if that gives them too much stress and are probably just scared as hell of me now. I was thinking of a solution... when I vacuum the gravel I can use a net divider and keep the fishes on one side while I vacuum the other

Ok for some other questions I've been wondering:

Would it help if I provide them with more hiding spots, like another mini cave?

When I get the 29 gal. tank I was planning to just decor it with fake plants, does it matter and have to be real plants? I don't mind having real plants later on in the future but I think I'm still a newbie for now, to get into that

If my fishes do breed.. what do I do if I dont intend to keep or take care of the frys? Will everyone else just eat them eventually? I guess I'll keep the ones that do survive.

Alrighty, thanks in advance to all you fish experts. Hope you guys can help.
 

Last edited:
bassbonediva

bassbonediva

Superstar Fish
#2
Oct 15, 2009
2,010
0
0
Northern Arizona
#2
The fish are probably stressed because the tank is cycling, which is extremely stressful for them. Do you own a test kit that tests for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? You really need one so that you can track the progress of your cycle. The API Freshwater Master test kit is what is generally recommended.

Also, I would ditch the beneficial bacteria condition stuff. Any "bacteria in a bottle" (except for Tetra SafeStart) is a gimic and will actually PREVENT your tank from cycling because it provides an artificial source of bacteria which prevents the actual bacteria you need in your tank for it to cycle from establishing because the artificial source of bacteria eats up all the ammonia and nitrites that the real bacteria need to live. The bacteria in those "bacteria in a bottle" things is a land-based bacteria, not an aquatic bacteria like you need.
 

O

OrangeCones

Elite Fish
#3
Feb 27, 2009
4,395
0
36
#3
bassbonediva said:
Any "bacteria in a bottle" (except for Tetra SafeStart) is a gimic and will actually PREVENT your tank from cycling because it provides an artificial source of bacteria which prevents the actual bacteria you need in your tank for it to cycle from establishing because the artificial source of bacteria eats up all the ammonia and nitrites that the real bacteria need to live.
Click to expand...
Interesting. Where did you get this information?
 

bassbonediva

bassbonediva

Superstar Fish
#4
Oct 15, 2009
2,010
0
0
Northern Arizona
#4
I've read it in several places (mainly on other forums). However, if you think about it, these "bacteria in a bottle" products require that you continue to add the product weekly to maintain the cycle. If your tank is truly cycled, the bacteria would be self-sustaining and wouldn't need any supplements to maintain the cycle. The bacteria from the product is not truly aquatic so it dies after a while since it is submerged, hence the reason it needs to be added again weekly.
 

Newman

Newman

Elite Fish
#5
Sep 22, 2009
4,668
0
0
Northern NJ
#5
are you sure Paige? i think the bacteria in a bottle is similar if not the same stuff. its nitrifying bacteria... does the same thing...grows and stays in the tank. idk, some products might have a crappy way of preserving the bacteria in the bottle, so maybe thats why some of these products dont work.
 

T

Thyra

Superstar Fish
#7
Jun 2, 2010
1,891
0
0
Yelm, WA
#7
Also one of the things I've noticed from reading the forum threads is so many do it differently that they can't all be following the directions on the bottle of whatever they are using.
 

Dylandrewsdad

Dylandrewsdad

Large Fish
#9
Aug 13, 2010
870
0
0
Sicklerville, NJ
#9
Well Def, it is kind of hard to help with out some more information. As already stated, we need to know the Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate readings please, in a cycled tank they should be 0-0-less then 20. These should not be from a "test strip" as most of us have found these unreliable, but a liquid test kit. Do you have one? Also you said you change 15-20% of your water weekly, most of us do at least 50% weekly. I suspect your fish are suffering from poor water conditions from not enough water changes.
 

D

Def1n1tely

New Fish
#15
Oct 15, 2010
9
0
0
#15
Ok thanks ppl, you guys have been pretty helpful so far.

I was thinking of heading to petsmart to get them to test the water or probably just get a liquid test kit. Then I'll let you guys know. I'm thinking I got 1 week left on the cycling period. Hopefully after that they won't get as stressed

And I'm guessing I should hold off on the 29 gal tank for now. Should I wait for the cycling to end or would it help relieve the fishes stress?

As for my other concerns, I didn't know it has to be 50% water change. I guess I can do that. But the fishes get scared as hell whenever I put in the gravel siphon to do the water change. I was wondering if that tank divider would help, and separate them from one side while I clean the other. What do you guys do?
 

Last edited:
O

OrangeCones

Elite Fish
#17
Feb 27, 2009
4,395
0
36
#17
Def1n1tely said:
But the fishes get scared as hell whenever I put in the gravel siphon to do the water change. I was wondering if that tank divider would help, and separate them from one side while I clean the other. What do you guys do?
Click to expand...
I've done this with wild-caught fish to ease stress. I've also done water changes after the lights are out (makes it a bit more difficult to see what I'm doing, but the fish seem less bothered by it).

They'll come around when the water is right :)
 

aakaakaak

aakaakaak

Superstar Fish
#18
Sep 9, 2010
1,324
0
0
Chesapeake, Virginia
#18
If you're using bacteria cycle products DO NOT use a stress coat product. They're known to kill the beneficial bacteria (for both TSS and Stability) and start your cycle over.

When I gravel vac instead of shaking it up and down, scaring the crap out of my fish I suck on the end like I'm siphoning gas. Just try and be careful not to actually get it in your mouth. It also goes more smoothly the lower your bucket is. With less motion of the apparatus my fish seem more happy.

Cycle bacteria stuff for Saltwater:
Bio-Spira works (The predacessor to TSS.) and you can use either Prime or AquaSafe with it. DO NOT add any other products as it may have an adverse effect.

Cycle bacteria stuff for Freshwater:
Tetra Safe Start OR Seachem Stability (Bio-Spira no longer has a Freshwater version.) will work with either Prime or AquaSafe. Again, don't add a stress coat product as it messes with the chemicals in TSS or Stability.

Paige's second article covers most of what I just said. Some of the information above is from Seachem and Tetra representatives. Excellent examples Paige. I know I'm bookmarking the second one.
 

D

Def1n1tely

New Fish
#19
Oct 15, 2010
9
0
0
#19
Okay so I did a 50% water change and vacuumed some of the gravel and theres been a positive dramatic change in their behavior. They're eating well again and looking healthier. I'm guessing it was ammonia stress.

I just read that you're supposed to do more frequent changes of water, 10-15% during the cycling to help get the ammonia out. Mistake I did though was throwing out the old filter replacing a new one. Guess I just threw out most of the beneficial bacteria starting to develop.
 

You must log in or register to reply here.