Finally 90 Gallon setup!! (Pics)
- Thread starter Panther28
- Start date
Yes you definitely should skim during the curing process. You buy live rock because it is , well , live, with living things on it, and sticking them through an ammonia bath is going to kill quite a lot of the more desirable things. You have had ammonia at 5 - well frankly , if you had some of the more super desirable hitchhikers like snails, crabs, other crustaceans, small corals, they have probably all been killed.
your live rock comes with a free collection of all the bacteria you will need to remove nitrogen based wastes from your tank water. You do not need to generate an ammonia spike to build these populations up- you do not need to 'cycle' a tank to encourage generation of populations of these bacteria.
your live rock comes with a free collection of all the bacteria you will need to remove nitrogen based wastes from your tank water. You do not need to generate an ammonia spike to build these populations up- you do not need to 'cycle' a tank to encourage generation of populations of these bacteria.
Thanks everyone for the input. I was just a little confused about skimming but have a clear picture of things now.
Just wanted to let everybody know that today is the day I am going to order my lights and wanted to make sure one more time before I spend $600+.
This the lighting I am going to get.
48" 2x250W HQI Metal Halide/ 2x54W T5 Fluorescent (retro)
Customizations:
250W HQI 14,000K Phoenix
250W HQI 14,000K Phoenix
54W 48" UV Aquasun 10,000K
54W 48" UV Super Actinic R
Kit Includes:
• (2)Polished Alluminum HQI paralolic relfectors w/glass shield.(Dimensions 3" x 6" 11")
• (2) ARO Electronic 250W MH Ballasts.
• (2) 48" T5 Parabolic clip on reflectors (42.5" x 2" x 1")
• Advance T5 HO ballast runs 2 lamps (16.75" x 1.25" x 1")
• IP67 Moisture Resistant German End-caps
• End cap Stand-Offs
• 33 ft 18g solid wire
• (2) 6 ft grounded power cord
Electronic ARO Ballast Specifications
* Will fire all 250W metal halide bulbs, regardless if they are "probe start", "pulse start", HQI or Standard mogul in design. No worries with this ballast! (however, this retrofit kit is for 250W HQI (Double Ended bulbs)
* Energy Saving - up to 25% over magnetic ballasts.
* Extended Lamp Life - up to 25%
* Consistent Lamp Color.
* Uniform Lumen Output.
* Reduced Lamp Flicker.
* Cool, Silent Operation.
* Long Ballast Life.
* 3 year warranty
* Dimensions: 8 1/2" x 3 3/4" x 2 1/8" (LxWxH)
Any input!!!
Never mind!! I already ordered the lights!!! can't wait to get them.
Just wanted to let everybody know that today is the day I am going to order my lights and wanted to make sure one more time before I spend $600+.
This the lighting I am going to get.
48" 2x250W HQI Metal Halide/ 2x54W T5 Fluorescent (retro)
Customizations:
250W HQI 14,000K Phoenix
250W HQI 14,000K Phoenix
54W 48" UV Aquasun 10,000K
54W 48" UV Super Actinic R
Kit Includes:
• (2)Polished Alluminum HQI paralolic relfectors w/glass shield.(Dimensions 3" x 6" 11")
• (2) ARO Electronic 250W MH Ballasts.
• (2) 48" T5 Parabolic clip on reflectors (42.5" x 2" x 1")
• Advance T5 HO ballast runs 2 lamps (16.75" x 1.25" x 1")
• IP67 Moisture Resistant German End-caps
• End cap Stand-Offs
• 33 ft 18g solid wire
• (2) 6 ft grounded power cord
Electronic ARO Ballast Specifications
* Will fire all 250W metal halide bulbs, regardless if they are "probe start", "pulse start", HQI or Standard mogul in design. No worries with this ballast! (however, this retrofit kit is for 250W HQI (Double Ended bulbs)
* Energy Saving - up to 25% over magnetic ballasts.
* Extended Lamp Life - up to 25%
* Consistent Lamp Color.
* Uniform Lumen Output.
* Reduced Lamp Flicker.
* Cool, Silent Operation.
* Long Ballast Life.
* 3 year warranty
* Dimensions: 8 1/2" x 3 3/4" x 2 1/8" (LxWxH)
Any input!!!
Never mind!! I already ordered the lights!!! can't wait to get them.
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Lookin good Panther, I know this tank will be special 
BTW - Hows the 20gal doin? The Mandarin? (not meaning to hijack, of course)
BTW - Hows the 20gal doin? The Mandarin? (not meaning to hijack, of course)
The 20 gal is still alive. Sitting just next to the 90 G. The Mandarin is still alive too. Basically the 20 gallon is waiting to be transfered to the 90G. I think by the end of this week the rock will cure.
Pics Below..
Yeah!! I can't wait to transfer everything to the 90 G.
Lighting update!! As most of you already know by now that I had ordered my lights yesterday and will be getting them tomorrow. Wow for the fast shipping.
can't wait!!
" Tracking Detail: Your package is on time with a scheduled delivery date of 05/17/2007. "
As for the LR curing I think by end of the week or by monday it will be ready for transfer. Ammonia is at 0 ppm and the nitrite is going down i think.
The only thing I am worried about is the temperature fluctuation. At present with the 25 watt light i have been able to keep the temp stable at 79.8 F but with the MH I don't think I will be able to control it that well. I am planing on adding an AC to my room which should help with the control and 3 x 6 " clip on fans. 2 on the canopy and 1 in the sump. The canopy already has 2 x 4" fans. I really don't want to spend $500+ on a chiller.
Any suggestions!! How do you guys/ gals keep the temp under control with MH?
Lighting update!! As most of you already know by now that I had ordered my lights yesterday and will be getting them tomorrow. Wow for the fast shipping.
can't wait!!
" Tracking Detail: Your package is on time with a scheduled delivery date of 05/17/2007. "
As for the LR curing I think by end of the week or by monday it will be ready for transfer. Ammonia is at 0 ppm and the nitrite is going down i think.
The only thing I am worried about is the temperature fluctuation. At present with the 25 watt light i have been able to keep the temp stable at 79.8 F but with the MH I don't think I will be able to control it that well. I am planing on adding an AC to my room which should help with the control and 3 x 6 " clip on fans. 2 on the canopy and 1 in the sump. The canopy already has 2 x 4" fans. I really don't want to spend $500+ on a chiller.
Any suggestions!! How do you guys/ gals keep the temp under control with MH?
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I keep the surface of the water broken and aggitated. I'm running 150HQI with a single 14k bulb and open top, the water maxes out at 81 degrees with the lights on over the course of 8hrs. At night it falls to 76-77 so I just turned my heater to around 79 and that stablizes temps. A little high but shouldnt have an adverse effect on anything.
I would say run your lights without a heater just to see how hot the water can get and then if its not too hot, turn your heater to a few degrees lower, and wa la. Stablility.
I would say run your lights without a heater just to see how hot the water can get and then if its not too hot, turn your heater to a few degrees lower, and wa la. Stablility.
yes my 75 fluctuates about 3 degrees between night and day.....that is at the maximum summer heat with central a/c set at about 75. I have a ceiling fan and then if it gets too hot I will add a soda bottle with frozen water in it to the overflow.......cheater chilller........My 20g is harder as it is in a very sunny room so I try to make sure that the window shades are drawn during the day and that the ceiling fan is on high too......it fluctuates a bit more than the other......
Thanks Katie, I will look around for a better one.
Thanks TheFighterFish,
At 1st I bought 80 lbs Fiji (pre cured) for $2.19 per lbs from ebay and was thinking it would be enough but was not. So then I bought Indonesian (cured) 40lbs from LFS for $3.00 per lbs.
I am planning on transferring everything from my 20 to the 90 and maybe leave a few lbs in the 20 and use it as a hospital/Quarantine Tank.
and again thanks everybody for comments!!
I will post pics later of the lighting I got. I am at work and thinking only about the lights.
Thanks TheFighterFish,
At 1st I bought 80 lbs Fiji (pre cured) for $2.19 per lbs from ebay and was thinking it would be enough but was not. So then I bought Indonesian (cured) 40lbs from LFS for $3.00 per lbs.
I am planning on transferring everything from my 20 to the 90 and maybe leave a few lbs in the 20 and use it as a hospital/Quarantine Tank.
and again thanks everybody for comments!!
I will post pics later of the lighting I got. I am at work and thinking only about the lights.