75g Stocking Suggestions

FreshyFresh

Superstar Fish
Jan 11, 2013
1,337
23
38
East Aurora, NY
#21
That's a GREAT deal for that 75g setup. All that new would probably retail for ~$800. I never heard of that Penn Plax canister, but it look like a good sized one, with 4+ media trays and a 350 gallon per hour flow rate. Amazon has the 1500 for $101. If you find you need more filtration later on, you can always add a hang-on back filter.

I've got a Sunsun 302 on my 55g tank. I think it's rated at ~250gph, but there's no way it flows that much. Probably more like half that at best. It was only like $49 shipped. Canisters do filter extremely well given all the media surface area. They're not as simple and user friendly as hang-on-back filters, but filter very well.
 

Ninjouzata

Medium Fish
Mar 23, 2013
53
0
0
Georgia
#22
That's a GREAT deal for that 75g setup. All that new would probably retail for ~$800. I never heard of that Penn Plax canister, but it look like a good sized one, with 4+ media trays and a 350 gallon per hour flow rate. Amazon has the 1500 for $101. If you find you need more filtration later on, you can always add a hang-on back filter.

I've got a Sunsun 302 on my 55g tank. I think it's rated at ~250gph, but there's no way it flows that much. Probably more like half that at best. It was only like $49 shipped. Canisters do filter extremely well given all the media surface area. They're not as simple and user friendly as hang-on-back filters, but filter very well.
Yeah, all we have to do is drive ~5 hours! :p Oh noes! The Cascade 1500 was like.. 96.91 I think a few hours ago, now it's gone up! I need to get my dad on that ASAP haha. Free shipping too I think!

My concern though was that I thought it was recommended to have 10x turnover or something, so wouldn't I want a 750gph? Or am I thinking of something different? Either way though, like you said, I can always upgrade.

My fear with the HOBs is it gives more space for fish to jump out, doesn't it? And the ones for this stock are escape artists >.<
Speaking of, any tips to proof the aquarium would be great.

Thanks for such a quick response btw :)
 

FreshyFresh

Superstar Fish
Jan 11, 2013
1,337
23
38
East Aurora, NY
#23
You have to have openings for your canister hoses, cords or HOB, so there's always openings. Either are nominal IMO. Usually your HOB filter fits the opening such that a fish can't jump over it.

I've never heard of the 10x water turnover thing. 5x is more than adequate. 10x would be some serious current through the tank.

2 HOB filters would be ideal for your setup too, as another option for you.
 

FishDad

Superstar Fish
Mar 4, 2012
1,218
1
38
Cleveland
#24
In freshwater I think waterflow is really dependent on the fish you have. Research what they prefer and what other people have done with them. If I remember you want to do things like tetras, angels and knifefish, all of which I pretty sure prefer low currents. That 10 times flow rate is considered a minimum for a saltwater reef tank for the health of the coral. That may be where you heard that from.

When I kept cichlids I had a flow rate of about 10 times and they loved it. But they come from a coastal environment very similar to that of the reef. So its all dependent on the fish, not necessarily the size of the tank.

One other thing, you (or your dad) may want to check the local craigslist posts. Used aquarium supplies is one of the largest markets on that site. Especially if your near a military base or around a lot of middle class apartment complexes or areas like that. Just a thought.
 

CAPSLOCK

Elite Fish
Jul 19, 2004
3,682
33
48
39
Cape Cod
#25
+1 to checking craigslist for good finds. Also see if you have a local fish club or aquarium society, sometimes they have people offloading equipment at a good deal.

The 10x turnover would be the total of all the water movement in the tank - so most people trying to get that amount of flow either use multiple filters or add powerheads to accomplish that.
 

Ninjouzata

Medium Fish
Mar 23, 2013
53
0
0
Georgia
#26
You have to have openings for your canister hoses, cords or HOB, so there's always openings. Either are nominal IMO. Usually your HOB filter fits the opening such that a fish can't jump over it.

I've never heard of the 10x water turnover thing. 5x is more than adequate. 10x would be some serious current through the tank.

2 HOB filters would be ideal for your setup too, as another option for you.
Yeah after I posted I thought about it and the HOBs probably help cover up the space! Perhaps will do the Cascade & a HOB..would I be able to fit the canister & 2 HOBs?
Most of these fish prefer low current so I think I should be alright.

In freshwater I think waterflow is really dependent on the fish you have. Research what they prefer and what other people have done with them. If I remember you want to do things like tetras, angels and knifefish, all of which I pretty sure prefer low currents. That 10 times flow rate is considered a minimum for a saltwater reef tank for the health of the coral. That may be where you heard that from.

When I kept cichlids I had a flow rate of about 10 times and they loved it. But they come from a coastal environment very similar to that of the reef. So its all dependent on the fish, not necessarily the size of the tank.

One other thing, you (or your dad) may want to check the local craigslist posts. Used aquarium supplies is one of the largest markets on that site. Especially if your near a military base or around a lot of middle class apartment complexes or areas like that. Just a thought.
Ooh yeah the SW thing could very well be where I heard it. And you're right, most of these fish, if not all of them, prefer low flow :)
I check craigslist very often, have yet to find any good deals on filters unfortunately. We live in the middle of nowhere.

+1 to checking craigslist for good finds. Also see if you have a local fish club or aquarium society, sometimes they have people offloading equipment at a good deal.

The 10x turnover would be the total of all the water movement in the tank - so most people trying to get that amount of flow either use multiple filters or add powerheads to accomplish that.
Totally forgot about powerheads. I'm hoping that won't be needed though..I just want to make sure the water is nice and clean for these guys! :)

Thanks to all of you for responding! I really enjoy reading your thoughts.
 

big54bob

Superstar Fish
Dec 20, 2006
1,486
6
38
30
On my office chair playing Runescape
#27
Hagen Aqua Clear Power Filter 110 Gallons - Filters - Fish - PetSmart

Best Filter series for your buck after the Fluval FX canister line. Alot of your fish are pooping machines so don't be afraid of over filtering your water. You don't NEED a powerhead as all it will do is add circulation to your fish tank. But if you want one I would suggest the hydor korelia line of power heads.

As for filtaring. I would suggest running 2 AC 110s as that would allready be overkill. They are the same price as that cascade and are VERY reliable.
 

Ninjouzata

Medium Fish
Mar 23, 2013
53
0
0
Georgia
#28
Ooh sorry I hadn't checked this in a bit! Thank you so much for commenting Bob!

That is great, thank you so much for link and will definitely keep it in mind. It has less gph (though not much less) than the cascade but if I got two then it'd be better, huh?
Am not worried about overfiltering at all, I definitely want to overfilter, it's just a matter of the money..but hopefully can just add filtration as we go since should be getting the fish as juveniles.

What are ya'lls thoughts on if a 150g would be safe upstairs? The 75g for 100$ is a great deal but dad sounds like he may let me get a 150g.
I'd rather get that if I can, just have to wait for the right deal to come along! >.<
 

FishDad

Superstar Fish
Mar 4, 2012
1,218
1
38
Cleveland
#29
I wouldn't do it personally. Your floor joists are usually farther apart than those on the first floor. So weight is one issue. The other issue is the amount of water. If there is an accident the you have 150 gallons spilling through your entire house, not just your first floor and basement.

To put the weight into perspective just add a zero to your tank volume and you get a high end estimate of the weight. So you're looking at 1500 lbs - that's about the weight of 8 full grown men standing in one spot. Probably wont make the floor collapse but it just makes me nervous, plus seals do go bad.

When you are considering tank placement try to find out which way the floor joist run and place your tank perpendicular to them and up against a wall. That will displace the weight and reduce the bouncing effect when people walk by.

150 gallons is a huge freshwater tank. You'll definitely want to go with an FX5 or equivalent Eheim model. Don't waste your time with HOBs on that volume. Some other things to consider when buying a used tank of that size is the condition of the glass. 150 can look awesome until you fill it with water and notice a huge scratch in the middle that constantly grows green algae. Scratches just stand out more in larger tanks so make sure you take a little led flashlight with you and scan the front with it. The scratches will reflect. Make sure it is FULL of water when you see it, don't buy it unless you see it hold water. Check the seems for flaking, bubbling or algae growth inside the silicone. If algae can get in there then so can water. If you know it leaks on the seems you could get a better deal, the silicone is easy to fix.
 

Ninjouzata

Medium Fish
Mar 23, 2013
53
0
0
Georgia
#31
I wouldn't do it personally. Your floor joists are usually farther apart than those on the first floor. So weight is one issue. The other issue is the amount of water. If there is an accident the you have 150 gallons spilling through your entire house, not just your first floor and basement.

To put the weight into perspective just add a zero to your tank volume and you get a high end estimate of the weight. So you're looking at 1500 lbs - that's about the weight of 8 full grown men standing in one spot. Probably wont make the floor collapse but it just makes me nervous, plus seals do go bad.

When you are considering tank placement try to find out which way the floor joist run and place your tank perpendicular to them and up against a wall. That will displace the weight and reduce the bouncing effect when people walk by.

150 gallons is a huge freshwater tank. You'll definitely want to go with an FX5 or equivalent Eheim model. Don't waste your time with HOBs on that volume. Some other things to consider when buying a used tank of that size is the condition of the glass. 150 can look awesome until you fill it with water and notice a huge scratch in the middle that constantly grows green algae. Scratches just stand out more in larger tanks so make sure you take a little led flashlight with you and scan the front with it. The scratches will reflect. Make sure it is FULL of water when you see it, don't buy it unless you see it hold water. Check the seems for flaking, bubbling or algae growth inside the silicone. If algae can get in there then so can water. If you know it leaks on the seems you could get a better deal, the silicone is easy to fix.
This was actually being thought of before I posted this thread, but I didn't want to be bothersome and ask things about two different tanks in one thread, so went with the more likely tank size which is the 75g. I also was 99% sure my dad was going to be like NO. And now he sounds quite alright with it. The reason I am wanting this over the 75g is, as you know, bigger is always better. I can bump the numbers up and get a wider variety of fish. One fish I could have that I can't in the 75g, is a fire eel.

Weight is definitely an issue, I agree. This is what me and my father were talking about and he seems to think it'll be okay. I was guesstimating 2000 lbs, to add for substrate and the weight of the tank and stand itself, along with the water. The tank will definitely be against a wall, whichever size it is.

I most definitely would be going with canister filters for this size tank, could I do those and HOBs, if I wanted? That is a wonderful tip about the flashlight, thank you. No worries on making sure if they hold water, have scratches, etc. My dad will not accept anything that isn't in great condition. Very very picky. This is good though when it comes to our tanks.

I am not trying to say you're wrong, as it is an opinion after all, I just wanted to tell you why I'd prefer the bigger size. You're definitely right on all points!

Agreed.

150's can come in some (in my opinion) odd sizes as well. Someone in my town is trying to sell a really nice looking 150g setup. The tank is 48" x 24" x 30". That's a LOT of weight on a 4' x 2' footprint. >> 150 gallon fish tank, like new
That is something I hadn't thought about, was the weight distribution depending on the dimensions of the tank. All the 150gs I see on craigslist are 6 feet. I want a 5x2x2.

Thank you both, your thoughts are very much appreciated. Any idea around how much it would cost an engineer to help us figure out what our floor can safely handle? Do they do that for fish tanks? D:
 

FishDad

Superstar Fish
Mar 4, 2012
1,218
1
38
Cleveland
#32
You don't need an engineer. Its fairly easy. Every standard colonial home has a beam, usually down the middle of the house that runs perpendicular to the joists. This is your load bearing wall. It supports your second floor and is reinforced by columns in the basement. When dealing with something that weighs 2000 lbs you definitely want to make sure it is up against either your load bearing wall or your exterior walls that are PARELLEL to it - these are also load bearing but support the roof. Your non load bearing walls will usually not have walls underneath or above them and typically are perpendicular to the main beam.

So "in summation" a typical 3-4 bedroom colonial will usually have 3 walls that are load bearing that you can utilize... the middle wall and the two exterior walls that run parallel. If you can see your joists in the basement or attic the it should be very simple to deduce what is load bearing.

Remember these are not rules by any stretch, but are typical methods of residential construction. And if you have a large or oddly shaped house then you might have many load bearing walls.

Ask your dad, I'm sure he knows.
 

Ninjouzata

Medium Fish
Mar 23, 2013
53
0
0
Georgia
#33
You don't need an engineer. Its fairly easy. Every standard colonial home has a beam, usually down the middle of the house that runs perpendicular to the joists. This is your load bearing wall. It supports your second floor and is reinforced by columns in the basement. When dealing with something that weighs 2000 lbs you definitely want to make sure it is up against either your load bearing wall or your exterior walls that are PARELLEL to it - these are also load bearing but support the roof. Your non load bearing walls will usually not have walls underneath or above them and typically are perpendicular to the main beam.

So "in summation" a typical 3-4 bedroom colonial will usually have 3 walls that are load bearing that you can utilize... the middle wall and the two exterior walls that run parallel. If you can see your joists in the basement or attic the it should be very simple to deduce what is load bearing.

Remember these are not rules by any stretch, but are typical methods of residential construction. And if you have a large or oddly shaped house then you might have many load bearing walls.

Ask your dad, I'm sure he knows.
Hrm, didn't mean the engineer for that part, but that does make sense. Seems you're right, no need. That's good ><
My dad already seems confident that the floor can handle it, but if it didn't cost too much was going to have a professional for reassurance.
Dad is always right though. XD

Thank you again! Oh, what are your thoughts on glasscages?
 

big54bob

Superstar Fish
Dec 20, 2006
1,486
6
38
30
On my office chair playing Runescape
#36
Take a stud breaker to the wall and try to find the studs/joists. Easiest way of doing it.

Also if you buy the tank used I would suggest stripping the sillacone and resealing it. Pretty sure your parents wouldn't want to come home to 75gal+ of water on the floor ruining there carpet/floors/whatever.
 

Ninjouzata

Medium Fish
Mar 23, 2013
53
0
0
Georgia
#37
Take a stud breaker to the wall and try to find the studs/joists. Easiest way of doing it.

Also if you buy the tank used I would suggest stripping the sillacone and resealing it. Pretty sure your parents wouldn't want to come home to 75gal+ of water on the floor ruining there carpet/floors/whatever.
Not sure what a stud breaker is but I will tell my dad and he should know. :)

I was meaning to ask about that, how do I tell if the seals are good on a tank? Will it be obvious if they're bad? And how hard is it to strip & reseal the tank? I am not a DIY person at all so that stuff really confuses me.

Thank you again :)
 

FreshyFresh

Superstar Fish
Jan 11, 2013
1,337
23
38
East Aurora, NY
#39
Maybe it's a different world in the 150+ gallon tank size, but I'd HATE to disturb the factory silicone on a tank that's not leaking. If it ain't broke, don't fix it IMO.

The thing (I don't think?) they address on the re-sealing tutorials is the actual bead of silicone that holds the glass together. AFAIK, that's your primary seal. The bead you add to the inside corners is a secondary seal. I guess my point is, I'd hate to rely only on that secondary seal.
 

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FishDad

Superstar Fish
Mar 4, 2012
1,218
1
38
Cleveland
#40
Never thought about that freshy. I would imagine you'd have to knife it out, completely out and reseal it while being sure that it is going all the way through the seem. Sounds like a pain. Maybe easier to use hot glue in the seams and silicone to cover up the corners.

And yeah if the tank doesn't leak, I wouldn't touch the silicone.