45 gallon questions

KahluaZzZ

Superstar Fish
Jun 12, 2004
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#21
no link but it can work.. i used to have a 10g sump/fuge on a 55g tank..chaetomorpha algae can take all the volume you give it.
If you know how to use silicon, you can go to the hardware store to make 'em cut glass panels to divide you sump..it's pretty cheap on a 10g, cost me 2.50$ for each panel ( both glass and cut )
Don't get a skilter, it's a useless nitrate reactor unless you get rid of all the media included
 

MOsborne05

Superstar Fish
Oct 3, 2005
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Gibsonburg, OH
#22
Ok thanks.

I found this on another forum, is it a good deal? From what I understand, it will sit in the sump, right?

aqua medic Turboflotor T1000 skimmer and pump sump style, not hang on $40.00 still available

He has these too, would I need either of them?
overflow box rated 600gph $30.oo with hose and u-tubes just make me an offer!
2-Ca 2200 pump's 600 GPH $25.00 each obo.reduced $15.00 each
 

MOsborne05

Superstar Fish
Oct 3, 2005
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Gibsonburg, OH
#24
I've got the tank and the lighting now, and I'm going to start working on the sump/fuge this weekend. I think I'm going to do a 20 gallon sump/fuge though, and use the 10 gallon for quarantine. Just wanted to make sure I'm on the right track as far as equipment. I want to do this right the first time, so that I'll be less likely to make mistakes :)

This is the plan:
-45 Gallon Tank
-20 gallon sump/fuge with dsb & chaeto
-10 gallon quarantine (what should go in it?)
-Reef 100GPD Reverse Osmosis Water Filters +DI+free 5 ps
[PW-22-10] $89.00 from P U R E W A T E R C L U B
-VisiTherm Stealth 150w Heater
- 2 Hydor Koralia 2 Powerheads
-1" fine aragonite sand with some live sand to seed it
-mainly baserock drilled with pvc, with some live rock
-Refractometer
-Instant Ocean Salt Mix
-Large garbage can to pre-mix the SW

I am going to have the tank drilled by Choice Aquariums in Michigan, and they will do the bulkheads & overflow box for me. Lots of people have told me to have it drilled because it will make it much easier for me, do you guys agree?

The only other thing I can think of are test kits. Is there any specific brand that I should get? Or is there an all-in-one test kit?

We got lots of cash & lfs gift cards for Christmas so we will be collecting our equipment asap, and will hopefully have the tank drilled in the next 2 weeks. We also got Lowe's cards to get started on the sump/fuge :)
 

Lorna

Elite Fish
Mar 3, 2005
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NE Indiana
#25
you seem to have a good plan in place. Did you decide on lighting? Drilling the tank is the optimal way that way you don't need overflow boxes and siphons to worry about. I use Salifert tests....but there are others out there, just some are easier to use than others, just remain consistent with what you use that way there will be less fluctuation. You will need to test for ammonia, nitrite, ph, alk to start....then later calcium, (if you have a lot of corals) phosphates, magnesium.......
 

KahluaZzZ

Superstar Fish
Jun 12, 2004
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#26
Salifert and seatest are great for everything but pricey. For no3 they are excellent. For ph, you can have same results with Dr Wellfish SW ph drops ( red one ) ..6-8$ for 160 tests i think. I have 3 ph test kits and they are all getting the same results. Ca is ok with Hagen, but the precision range is +- 20 ppm, wich is ok un less you monitor like a freak. Alk also with cheap Hagen. Ammonia..any test are good, even strips IMO ( and i usually hate strips ).
 

MOsborne05

Superstar Fish
Oct 3, 2005
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#27
Ok thanks. I forgot to mention the lighting. I ended up getting that Nova Extreme T-5 fixture from a local reefer. It is 156 watts with a lunar light, so that should allow me to keep a wide range of corals and even an anemone. I paid $100 for it and she only used it for a few months, it was still in the box!
 

BalaShark

Large Fish
Dec 5, 2005
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#30
Would this be a good light to purchase? Or can someone recommend a better one that is 36"?
Current USA Satellite 36" 96 Watt Power Compact Fixture-Single Strip W/Lunar Light at Big Al's Online

Also, the guy at the lfs said I would need some sort of mechanical filtration like an hob filter. From what I've read, the live rock should provide all of the filtration that I need, correct?

And is there any specific brand of powerheads that are better than another? Also, how much flow should I aim for?
As for the light, I have learned my lesson. Buy the right light (I prefer a MH) the first time, otherwise you end up like me spending a fortune on lights that end up filling your basement.

Don't spend money on mechanical filtration, spend a bit more and get a skimmer. A AquaC Remora Pro will do it for your tank. If you decide against a skimmer (bad choice) you'll end up with a mechanical filter (in your basement) and buy a skimmer anyway.

My (expensive) lesson in life with SW is, buy the right stuff. The wrong stuff just ends up filling your basement.*ALL*
 

Lotus

Ultimate Fish
Moderator
Aug 26, 2003
15,115
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Southern California
home.earthlink.net
#31
Good deal on the light fixture :D In a few months, you should get some new bulbs for it, especially if you're having algae problems, or when you start getting corals. I think the bulbs are good for about 12 months' use on T5s.

You don't really need the live sand in a bag. Either get a handful of sand from a fellow reefer, or get a few pieces of rock from a different area (if you're getting Fiji, get some Marshall, etc.) to add to the biodiversity.

I have Salifert tests for nitrates, magnesium and pH, but the pH was probably a waste of money, as Kahlua says. I use AP for calcium and something else cheapish for alkalinity. The ammonia test from your freshwater might be usable, so check the bottle. I also used my freshwater nitrite kit while cycling.