Reverse flow under gravel???

Jul 28, 2006
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#22
well the water I used from the other tank was "dirty" since I stirred the bottom up pretty good before I transfered. I put Some small cichlds in today and the water is clouding up. I know I should of waited a few days but guess now is too late lol.. the fish seem to be doing ok as of now. Time will tell I guess. thanks again for all your good advice and i hope you won't have to say I told you so.
 

Jul 28, 2006
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#24
JWright said:
The only thing in that dirty water was fish waste and uneaten food... just going to contribute more to the problem....

so what is your suggestion??
I had two other reputable petsotres tell me that "dirty" water from another tank was a good idea to get things jumpstarted...I guess really thats irrelevate at this point. Whats done is done. Now I guess I just need the best suggestions on how to remedy the situation. I did remove one of the filter bags from my other tank and placed it in a slot in one of the 400's I have running. good idea or no??
 

rohnds

Large Fish
Apr 23, 2005
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#26
Again our good moderator has overlocked an important point. The reason they suggested using "dirty water" is precisely due to the fact that it contains waste such as uneaten food and etc; as this is the food source for the bacteria i.e. ammonia. You can add ammonia to start to cycle or add "dirty water", in both cases you are providing NH3 ... source of food for the bacteria to explode.

Rohn
 

Jul 22, 2006
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#28
I believe the person meant, she got 1 of the Emperor 400 filter (the one with double - 2). I think people are misunderstanding that she has 2 of the Emperor 400 filter.

I have 1 Emperor 280 filter and the only flaw to the filter, the intake tube is too wide. Its not a problem, so you just have to put a plant in front of it (with enough space between the intake and plant). Another thing about the Emperor, it produces more bubbling waterfall than the Penguin filter. Its a good filter that produces extremely wavy water.

I also use the UGF with the traditional method and I am happy with it. One thing about the air stones, keep the air going as long you can. Once the air pump stops (by unplugging), the air stones will (i dunno what it does) lessen the bubbles amount (air flow). When I got a brand new hood, I had to unhook the air tubes from the 3-way to insert thru the holes in the hood and connect to the 3-way again. Sadly, the air stones suffered, so I have to get new air stones to maximize the flow again.

Thunder
 

GIS Guy

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Feb 18, 2004
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#29
I don't believe that Going has added the fish yet. With the addition of "dirty" water and the populated media, I would suggest just watching the water parameters.

I have an Emperor 280. It is a great filter, efficient, but does sound like a fountain in the room. I try to keep the water level at the maximum to reduce splash and "wavy" surface water. The maintenance requirements on the 280 are also low, IMHO.
 

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Jul 22, 2006
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#30
About that Emperor 280 filter, I have it on level 1. There are 3 levels of speed, being 1 the slowest. There is also a level 0, temporary turning off the waterfall during feeding. Lets just say that level 3 generates 280 GPH, but how much GPH does level 1 generates? Does anyone know?

I have it at level 1, because the tank currently have another filter as well for a month at least. As soon the Emperor is established, I may increase to level 2 or 3 after taking out the other filter.

Thunder
 

Jul 28, 2006
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#31
THUNDER said:
I believe the person meant, she got 1 of the Emperor 400 filter (the one with double - 2). I think people are misunderstanding that she has 2 of the Emperor 400 filter.

I have 1 Emperor 280 filter and the only flaw to the filter, the intake tube is too wide. Its not a problem, so you just have to put a plant in front of it (with enough space between the intake and plant). Another thing about the Emperor, it produces more bubbling waterfall than the Penguin filter. Its a good filter that produces extremely wavy water.

I also use the UGF with the traditional method and I am happy with it. One thing about the air stones, keep the air going as long you can. Once the air pump stops (by unplugging), the air stones will (i dunno what it does) lessen the bubbles amount (air flow). When I got a brand new hood, I had to unhook the air tubes from the 3-way to insert thru the holes in the hood and connect to the 3-way again. Sadly, the air stones suffered, so I have to get new air stones to maximize the flow again.

Thunder
No I have two emperor 400's..and I'm a he.:D *celebrate
 

JWright

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Oct 22, 2002
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#32
GIS Guy said:
I don't believe that Going has added the fish yet. With the addition of "dirty" water and the populated media, I would suggest just watching the water parameters.
Ah, my mistake, thanks GIS Guy.

Adding detrius will certainly cause an initial ammonia spike, and will move your cycle along before you add fish. It probably won't be enough to completely cycle your tank, but it should certainly help.
 

TheMainer

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Sep 3, 2005
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#33
Going for broke said:
I put Some small cichlds in today and the water is clouding up. I know I should of waited a few days but guess now is too late lol.. the fish seem to be doing ok as of now.
I believe he did put some in already...

In either case, I think everyone got their point across as to what should be done. :)
 

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rohnds

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Apr 23, 2005
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#36
The fish already in the tank are providing the ammonia. If you're cycling with fish in the tank, adding extra ammonia is generally a bad idea.
No where in his post did I read that he has added fish in the tank. That is why he told to use "dirty water". Some even add fish food to kick start the cycle. What is important is introduction of ammonia as a food source in which way. There is no right and wrong way.
If the post are in any chronological order, he added the fish after adding the so called " dirty water".
The amount of ammonia directly effect the size of the bacteria colony and effect the bioload capacity.
Now your best option is keep the fish (since I assume you cannot take them back) and cycle the tank using them. Do frequent water changes and water testing. Watch for NO2 spike and then later NO3 spike. By then you should have no traces of NH4 and NO2 in your water ... then your tank is CYCLED.

Rohn
 

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JWright

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Oct 22, 2002
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#37
Did you even read the following posts, or just hit reply to mine...?

I, at first, assumed he had added fish. GIS Guy then posted that he had not added fish yet. Mainer then clarified the situation by posting a quote from earlier in the thread, stating that the tank was in fact stocked.

Obviously the source of ammonia doesn't matter. NH3 is NH3 (except when it's NH4...) My remarks were made under the assumption that the tank was stocked, and I think most people would agree that adding extra ammonia, above and beyond what the fish are producing, isn't healthy for the fish.
 

GIS Guy

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#39
THUNDER said:
About that Emperor 280 filter...Lets just say that level 3 generates 280 GPH, but how much GPH does level 1 generates? Does anyone know?
Thunder
I have to assume that each setting (or pushed position) is equal to the next.
So if setting 3 is equal to 280 GPH just divide by 3 to get 93.3 GPH per setting (running remainder of .3333...)

This would make each setting as follows:
0 = 0 GPH
1 = 93.3 GPH
2 = 186.6 GPH
3 = 280 GPH
 

Jul 28, 2006
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#40
To clarify, yes the tank is stocked.

I have one firemouth, one kenyi (sp), a JD, a convict and a rainbow.
they are all about 1.5 to 2 inches in length. paramenters seem to be fine as of now and the water is clearing. I will keep an eye on things and hope for the best.

do you think that because of the size of the tank and the small amount of fish it will have less of an impact on them??