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aakaakaak

Superstar Fish
Sep 9, 2010
1,324
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Chesapeake, Virginia
Lol, now that I have some dimensions I'm going to end up mathing this thing out. Are you intending to put the two 10's right next to each other or would you like a small spacer?

Or...

You could make the math easy and flip it. Put the 40 on the bottom and the two 10s on the top?

A simple solution to the problem would be to screw and glue an extra set of 2x4's to both sides of the top section to cover the extra 4 inches. Then adding a center brace that goes long ways. Cover the top with 3/4 inch thick particle board and that should be more than enough support. Remember to brace it with metal joints if you can.

A 40 gallon breeder is 458 lbs of water.
http://freshaquarium.about.com/od/aquariumsandstands/a/tanksizesweights.htm

You could also go the corner bracing route. Instead of flat bracing you cut at a 45 and bolt/joint the boards into the corners.
 

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ryanoh

Large Fish
Mar 22, 2010
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Hmmm. I hadn't thought about putting the 10s on top.
What I think would also be cool was having the 10s on the bottom since they're wider, then the 40 on top but having a shelf all the way around it to match the width of the 10s. Again, I don't know how to do that with the supports for the 40 though. Is there a structurally sound way to do anything using diagonal supports or some sort?
 

aakaakaak

Superstar Fish
Sep 9, 2010
1,324
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Chesapeake, Virginia
Yep, I just added it to the above post. I'll re-explain.

You can add four short 2x4's cut at 45 degree angles and bolt them to the corner of your L-support. That requires you to drill a housing for it and is more for sway support than weight support. Adding a lengthwise center brace will add a good amount of structural support and distribution. As will throwing a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood on top.

You could also upgrade to 2x6 or 2x8 and simply run short cross braces under it without any problems. Metal brackets also add a depth of support. Think of it as building a 2nd story deck.
 

ryanoh

Large Fish
Mar 22, 2010
858
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I definitely was going to use metal braces for the extra support.
I mostly got what you said, but you lost me a little. If you get a chance can you sketch it out for me?

Oh, I'm also leaving room for a Rena XP2 behind the 10 gallons to eventually run in the 40. That's 8.5x9.5 inches according to their site.
 

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aakaakaak

Superstar Fish
Sep 9, 2010
1,324
0
0
Chesapeake, Virginia
Again, thinking further and possibly adding some coolness...

I wonder if there's a way to set the 10 gallon tanks on sliding server rackmount drawers, so you could slide them out for easy use/cleaning. I know the drawers go up to 150 lbs support in some cases...
 

aakaakaak

Superstar Fish
Sep 9, 2010
1,324
0
0
Chesapeake, Virginia
Like this:


Remove the center vertical braces and increase the 2x4s on top to 2x6s or 2x8s.

The horizontal cross braces in the middle should be hung like this:


Here's how it's done with decking:


If you're worried about the weight in the middle for a 2x8 beam you can keep the vertical beams in the back and merry them up with the horizontal cross braces and put in some pretty looking, yet functional wrought iron corbels:


Does that cover it for you?
 

Aug 13, 2010
870
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Sicklerville, NJ
Your drawing shows joints on the end, I would just make the 2X4's the length you want instead of having joints. I think 2X8's would be over kill and suspect 2X6 would be as well. For the center brace you could use joist hangers as suggested. The metal braces on all the joints is overkill as well, however it wouldn't hurt.....LOL

I would use 2X6's for the top structure and do away with center brace going from top to bottom for easy access and viewing the tanks in the bottom like you said. While the weight of the 40 on top with water and deco is something close to 400-425 lbs, the span would not require a center brace with 2X6's and the 3/4 plywood supporting it. I would also put a floor on of pressure treated or ACQ or what ever they are calling it these days. The vertical corner pieces woud be toe nailed (or screwed, through the floor to the bottom structure.
 

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bassbonediva

Superstar Fish
Oct 15, 2009
2,010
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Northern Arizona
ATTENTIONNE!! ATTENTIONNE!!

If you have a good Petsmart in the area they're having a decent sized sale this weekend. They're marking down a good chunk of their fish stock by 50%.

I think I'll get me some peppered corys. The ones they have in stock look excellent, if still small.
GAH! They just have to have this sale on the weekend that I *don't* get paid! Suck!

I'm seriously considering getting this tank to replace the 29gal...fish tank
 

Thyra

Superstar Fish
Jun 2, 2010
1,891
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Yelm, WA
I do not understand the diagram either, but some things to consider. You need a base that spreads the weight - not just 4 or 6 legs. Your weight with the stand is going to approach 1000# (particle board is also heavy) Also remember the tank or tanks on top need to be supported in its own right and if the 40 gallon tank is on top; it will be top heavy. The diagram shows it only about 15 ½ deep and with that much weight on top I would be concerned. How will you get to clean the bottom tanks? I ran into that situation myself. I found I had to unload a shelf above it and remove the shelf to get at the filter. Whatever you decided you will need some triangulation to prevent any sway. You might be able to figure a way to built the bottom shelf completely separate from the top and put it on heavy casters so you could pull it out. Then built the base for the top tank with three sides on the floor to spread the weight and I would also attach the back to the wall. Maybe this will give you some ideas.
 

bassbonediva

Superstar Fish
Oct 15, 2009
2,010
0
0
Northern Arizona
aak, $45 is "stupid cheap" here, too! LOL! I emailed the people and asked how many gallons (or what the dimensions are) the tank is. Haven't heard back, but that was just a few minutes ago. Newman has a 40gal flat back hex (which is what the tank I'm considering is) and said it looks bigger than his. :D Heck, if it's bigger than the 55gal, I'll upgrade the 55gal to the new tank, then the 46gal to the 55gal and use the 46gal to replace the 29gal.
 

aakaakaak

Superstar Fish
Sep 9, 2010
1,324
0
0
Chesapeake, Virginia
To spread the weight on the bottom he could extend the front of the structure out a foot or so and add some drawers for fish junk. It'd be sort of how some bunk beds are bigger on the bottom.

Like this:

It'd also add a step to get to the top tank better.
 

aakaakaak

Superstar Fish
Sep 9, 2010
1,324
0
0
Chesapeake, Virginia
aak, $45 is "stupid cheap" here, too! LOL! I emailed the people and asked how many gallons (or what the dimensions are) the tank is. Haven't heard back, but that was just a few minutes ago. Newman has a 40gal flat back hex (which is what the tank I'm considering is) and said it looks bigger than his. :D Heck, if it's bigger than the 55gal, I'll upgrade the 55gal to the new tank, then the 46gal to the 55gal and use the 46gal to replace the 29gal.
Hun, you're gonna need to start taking pills for your MTS. *BOUNCINGS
 

bassbonediva

Superstar Fish
Oct 15, 2009
2,010
0
0
Northern Arizona
ROFL...well, there is the spot over by the china cabinet where the 18gal tall is (which I'm getting rid of the 18gal tall as well, so :p )...Actually, I'm thinking of how I can rearrange the living room so that I can fit another tank in there. lol Right now all but two of the tanks (the 46gal and the 29gal) are in either the living room or the kitchen.