The dumbest question is the question never asked.
This is the nitrogen cycle starting with what you put in and ending with what you take out...
Food --> Fish --> Waste/Ammonia(NH3..?) --> Nitrite(NO2) --> Nitrate(NO3) --> Plants/Water changes
Don't use test strips, they're inaccurate and the chemistry angle of liquid kits is more fun anyway.
Try reading over the posts again and maybe find some other guides on other sites. Three or four different runthroughs should make it more clear to you. That said, you can put anything inorganic in your tank pre-cycle. You can add plants but they will slow you down and some won't appreciate the ammonia. Keep in mind that while you're doing your cycle the tank is going to be so toxic that a hardy fish might last five minutes in there.
During your cycle your objective will be to maintain an ammonia concentration of 5ppm. This may mean adding ammonia on a daily basis, it may mean avoiding the tank for days, it depends on the speed at which your particular tank is going to cycle.
There will be three successive spikes in your cycle. Ammonia will be the first to spike as you add it in. Eventually your daily ammonia will be entirely consumed in a 24 hour period, thus ending the first spike. This does not mean that you should stop adding ammonia. The second spike will be your nitrIte spike. This will climb higher than the ammonia spike and eventually fall to 0 on it's own. The final spike is the NitrAte spike. As nitrite is processed by bacteria nitrate is formed. When the second spike is finished you should wait for a day or two and then perform a humongoid water change to remove the massive ammount of bacterial toxins in your tank, thus ending the third spike. Is spike never actually falls but is periodically reduced as you perform regular water changes.
Now you have baterial colonies established. Stock big or stock small but be aware that the bacteria will adjust and die off to a level appropriate for the ammount of fish waste in the tank. Once you've initially stocked the tank future stockings should be small, I think.
This is the nitrogen cycle starting with what you put in and ending with what you take out...
Food --> Fish --> Waste/Ammonia(NH3..?) --> Nitrite(NO2) --> Nitrate(NO3) --> Plants/Water changes
Don't use test strips, they're inaccurate and the chemistry angle of liquid kits is more fun anyway.
Try reading over the posts again and maybe find some other guides on other sites. Three or four different runthroughs should make it more clear to you. That said, you can put anything inorganic in your tank pre-cycle. You can add plants but they will slow you down and some won't appreciate the ammonia. Keep in mind that while you're doing your cycle the tank is going to be so toxic that a hardy fish might last five minutes in there.
During your cycle your objective will be to maintain an ammonia concentration of 5ppm. This may mean adding ammonia on a daily basis, it may mean avoiding the tank for days, it depends on the speed at which your particular tank is going to cycle.
There will be three successive spikes in your cycle. Ammonia will be the first to spike as you add it in. Eventually your daily ammonia will be entirely consumed in a 24 hour period, thus ending the first spike. This does not mean that you should stop adding ammonia. The second spike will be your nitrIte spike. This will climb higher than the ammonia spike and eventually fall to 0 on it's own. The final spike is the NitrAte spike. As nitrite is processed by bacteria nitrate is formed. When the second spike is finished you should wait for a day or two and then perform a humongoid water change to remove the massive ammount of bacterial toxins in your tank, thus ending the third spike. Is spike never actually falls but is periodically reduced as you perform regular water changes.
Now you have baterial colonies established. Stock big or stock small but be aware that the bacteria will adjust and die off to a level appropriate for the ammount of fish waste in the tank. Once you've initially stocked the tank future stockings should be small, I think.